Pet Bucket Blog

The thought of giving a dog a bath can strike fear even in the bravest of people. And dogs are even less thrilled. However bath time is an important factor in your dog's overall health and wellbeing, promoting hygiene and cleanliness. And you benefit too because no one like a smelly dog hanging around. If you are having a real problem getting your dog to even set foot in the bathroom, you may need to slate bath time for a later date to first teach your dog to love getting in and out of the bath. For a good few days you can try and stash your pet's favourite treats or toys in the bath. Also, you can turn the bath into a fun game by throwing treats into the tub and watch your dog hop in afterwards to retrieve them. Remember to reinforce positive associations by giving extra treats whilst they are standing in the bath. If you do this a few times, a couple times a week your dog is going to LOVE going in the bath. This is also a good time to get them used to the water and sounds that go along with bath time. Get them used to the running tap, starting at a trickle. Use a damp hand to run over their body and remember to treat them for putting up with it! Remember to always have a non-slip mat inside and even on the floor of the bathroom. At this point it's also worth a mention, that if you're not up to the challenge yourself, or don't like the though of your house getting completely soaked then you may need to call in a professional groomer to take care of this task. You'll need: Clothes you are willing to get dirty Shampoo Conditioner Brush Mineral oil / eye moisturising ointment Cotton balls (for floppy ears) 2 x big absorbent towels Treats Non-skid mat Bowl or large cup (in lieu of a detachable shower head) How to give your dog a stress free bath Bring all your materials into the bathroom ready for the bath. Make sure everything is close to hand. Remember to check with your veterinarian what shampoos and conditioner (if required) is going to be best for your dog. Trim your dog's nails before bath time. It will protect you and allow your dog to get a better grip on the bath. Make sure you close the door behind you because you really don't want to deal with an escapee. Remember to praise your dog for entering the bathroom - don't attempt to get them in the bath just yet! Give your dog a good brush to get rid of any excess hair and fur. Use cotton balls for each ear to keep the water out and use mineral oil (or similar) to help protect their eyes. If you have a big dog, it is probably best to enlist a second pair of hands to help you out. Start running the bath. Make sure the temperature is a nice even one - not too hot or cold! Get your dog to now get in the bath and remember to treat them for getting to this crucial stage. Starting at the shoulders and moving out, begin to massage in the shampoo. Be extra cautious near the face and other sensitive areas. Massage deeply because you want to make sure you reach the undercoat. Rinse all the shampoo using your detachable shower head or a bowl, and use your fingers to make sure all the soap has been rinsed out, along with any residue which could cause irritation. Apply conditioner if it is required. Don't forget to read the instructions as some conditioners require you to leave it in for a few minutes, but try your best to find a fast-acting one - your dog is bound to become restless during this time! Now the bath is finished, thoroughly towel dry your dog, getting as much of the water off as possible. If your dog has a long coat, you could use a hairdryer on a low setting. Give your dog a nice big brush. Open the door and watch them go mad! Not so bad after all! Tips: Never use human shampoo - only ever shampoos made for dogs. Use less shampoo than you need and rinse more than you think you should. Only some dogs need conditioner so check to see if your dog is one of them. You don't really need to wash your dogs face, so you can avoid the area. If you insist, opt for a tearless shampoo. Nails are soft after being in warm water, so you may choose to instead clip your dogs after bath time - at your own risk of course! Schedule bath time before something that your dog loves such as play time or dinner. Make sure your body language and voice is calm and positive. Start bath time practices as young as possible. In preparation for bath time, get your dog used to being handled all over so it won't be such a shock later on. Don't call your dog to the bathroom - they will just learn not to come. If you can carry your dog there or use a leash. You can teach your dog commands like 'get in' and 'get out' so they can get in and out of the bath on cue - especially useful for large dogs. Medium to larger dogs can be bathed in the shower or outdoors in places like a kiddy pool. Small dogs can be bathed in sinks. If your dog absolutely hates baths, only do so when when it's absolutely necessary or use a damp cloth to get rid of dirt. Feature image credit  

Your cat's charming and affectionate antics may delight you during the day, but you probably feel quite differently when your furry friend won't let you get a full night's sleep. Whether your pet paws at your face, stands on your body, bites your toes or screams in your ear, you will wake up feeling profoundly annoyed. Some cats have perfected the art of disturbing an owner's rest, and it can be quite difficult to change this routine. Here's what you need to know about your cat's annoying morning behavior, and advice that will help you to change their habit. Why your cat is waking you up In many cases, food will be the motivation for waking you up. If the longest gap between meal times happens to fall when you're asleep, your cat's rumbling stomach may motivate some very annoying behavior. However, some cats will just be looking for attention. If your cat is highly sociable but doesn't live with any other pets, loneliness may drive the cat to paw at you in an attempt to solicit affection. It's also worth noting that boredom can lead to a cat trying to wake you, and this issue is once again more common in single cat households. How to change your cat's habit If the cat's goal is to obtain food, giving in to their demands just reinforces their behavior. Even though it is tempting to throw some food in your cat's direction so that you can be left alone to sleep, this short-term solution will lead to repeated instances of early waking. Delayed gratification can also influence your cat's likelihood of sticking to the same pattern of behavior, so even waiting for twenty minutes or half an hour is reinforcing the early waking pattern. While you might also be tempted to shut your cat in a room that is far enough away that you won't be woken by any crying, this tactic may distress your pet. If it turns out that your cat is primarily looking for affection or stimulation, being trapped in a small space may be frightening or upsetting. One of the best ways to change your cat's behavior is to change what you do with your cat at night. In particular, feeding your cat late at night (i.e. right before you go to bed) can help to keep hungry kitties satisfied throughout the night. In addition, a night time playing session that leaves your cat feeling happy and tired can promote restful sleep and reduce the need for stimulation during the night. However, it is always good to leave plenty of toys for the cat to play with at night as well.  If you feed your cat dry food, you can experiment with a meal delivery system that is automated. Once your cat learns that you are not directly responsible for meals, you may find that the animal stops pestering you during the night. Feature image credit

Unfortunately, there is no guarantee that your cat will approve of your choice of partner. While you may have foreseen this if you have an obviously shy or choosy pet, there are also mystifying cases in which cats simply do not like particular people. You may never convince your cat to love your partner as much as you do, but keeping the following advice in mind may at least help your cat to tolerate the new person in your life. 1. Don't try to force an instant resolution It is vital to avoid the temptation to force your cat and partner into intense interactions in an attempt to create a bond. If your cat is scared of your partner, the animal will only emerge from these enforced liaisons feeling more afraid. Your partner may also see more aggressive behavior (such as hissing and growling) because the cat will feel trapped. Explain all of your ideas and motivations to your partner so it is clear that you're not demonstrating mistrust as well! 2. Swap scents Smells are very important to cats, and your pet may become more comfortable with the presence of your partner if you place items of your partner's clothing around the home (when your partner isn't standing in front of the cat). The scent may slowly become less threatening, and your cat may be less intimidated by your partner's presence as a result. Interestingly, you can also try putting some of your cat's scent on your partner. If you gently rub some of your partner's clothes on scent glands near the cat's mouth, pheromones will be transferred. Your cat deliberately transfers these pheromones onto people and objects in times of relaxation, so you may be able to trick your suspicious pet into feeling more comfortable around your partner. 3. Create safe spaces Your cat will find it easier to deal with the discomfort felt around your partner if there are plenty of places to hide. Comfortable beds, small spaces inside cat trees and even cardboard boxes provide sanctuary, and your cat is more likely to come to terms with your partner's presence if an escape route is always available. 4. Offer bribes If your cat comes to see your partner as someone who brings enjoyable items, trust may slowly develop. For example, your partner might try putting a single treat in your cat's food (before walking away) each time they meet, or you may even try having your partner prepare the cat's food at mealtimes. Toys can also make effective bribes for particularly playful cats, especially if the toys contain catnip (for those cats that like catnip). 5. Suggest play sessions In addition to giving the cat toys to play with, your partner can try playing games with your cat. The key is to play from a safe distance, using a fun toy dangled at the end of the rope. A younger or more active cat will find this type of game hard to resist, and repeated sessions can help to lessen feelings of fear or hostility in your pet. Feature image credit  

Owners that bring home a new pet often liken the situation to bringing home a new child. A new baby requires a lot more attention, but new pets create a lot of change in the average routine as well. Welcoming a new kitten into your home comes with challenges, and one of the most difficult challenges arises when it is time to return to work.   The first time you leave your kitten home alone you are no doubt nervous about what is going to happen. Will the kitten whine all day and perhaps become distressed? Perhaps it will become bored and destroy things around the home. Even worse, an untrained kitten may leave messes everywhere but in the litter box. How can you prepare your kitten to be home alone for the first time?   1. Control access The absolute worst thing you can do is leave the house for first time and allow your kitten to have free range throughout the house. It is important to establish a safe, but confined, environment for it to spend the day in until you return. There are several ways of doing this, but the easiest is to simply confine it to one room. It goes without saying that bathrooms, closets, and other small rooms are a poor choice.   Select a bedroom or office in the home, or better yet the laundry room, where your kitten can spend the day. Create a safe environment by removing anything from the room that the kitten could harm itself playing with, or destroy if it becomes too playful. Examples of items to remove include glass vases, bottles, and cleaning supplies with harmful chemicals.   2. Provide entertainment Now that you have selected an environment for your kitten to spend the day in, you'll need to provide it with some entertainment. Just because you have locked the kitten in one room does not mean it is going to magically behave because you removed all of the dangers. Leave an array of toys out for the kitten to play with. It would be a good idea to invest in a scratching post and climbing house for the kitten's room. This provides an outlet for any destructive tendencies, while also providing it with a task (climbing) to do during the day.   3. Don't forget necessities If there is one advantage to owning kittens over puppies, it is the ability of kittens to use the bathroom indoors without (necessarily) making a mess. Before you leave your kitten home all day in its safe environment, move its litter box into the room so that it can use the bathroom when needed without going wherever it pleases.   Additionally, don't forget to leave food and water dishes out in the room. Cats are grazing eaters, so it is difficult to feed them before you leave and then again when you return home. Leave a bowl in the room with some dry food in it for your kitten to munch on when it gets hungry. It's natural to get thirsty while eating, so don't forget to leave a bowl of water out for your kitten as well.   Some of these habits can change as your kitten matures. Without question, the most important step to follow with a kitten being left home for the first time is a controlled environment. Older cats tend to behave well with access to the entire home. Kittens are rambunctious and prone to mischief though, so it would be foolish to allow them more than one room to roam in during your absence. Feature image credit

It's a shame how many loving, friendly and well trained dogs get passed up at animal shelters in favour of undeniably cute puppies. While all dogs that find themselves in animal shelters deserve to find a forever home, the reality is many adult dogs get left behind, even though there are so many benefits to adopting a mature dog! Many adult dogs are already housetrained and have mastered basic obedience, so quite often you can skip past these stages and get on with enjoying your new companion. But what about when the adult dog you've adopted has behavioural issues? The reality is, there is always going to be a period of adjustment for you and especially for your dog. You may or may not experience these common behavioural problems: House soiling Separation anxiety Vocalising Chewing Jumping up Pulling on leash Most shelters do an evaluation and will notify you of any behavioural issues they've come across. It's also a good idea for you to closely observe your pal to see if you can detect anything for yourself. Anything you do notice is likely to be replicated at home - but don't let that put you off! Your soon-to-be dog has possibly been untrained and so the experience would be no different to adopting a puppy. Some adopters of adult dogs experience a honeymoon period, whereby it would appear that they've adopted the perfect pooch until days or weeks later, undesirable behaviour makes itself known. It may be because they finally feel comfortable in their new home, are testing boundaries or stress from life with their previous owner has subsided, revealing their true nature. In the first instance, take your new dog to the vet to rule out any unknown medical conditions that may be the cause of these behavioural issues. If nothing has been found, you can start training them yourself or you can seek out obedience classes or a trainer to help curb their behaviour. Remember, most problems are solvable with plenty of love and patience. In the first few days in their new home, dogs may express the following normal behaviour: Lack of appetite Wariness Hiding in various places Timid body language It's your job to make your new dog feel safe and comfortable as soon as possible to help rid them of any feelings of anxiety. It also helps them to reveal their true selves, which is important for you too. Dog proof a room that they will be comfortable in or place a dog bed (with toys) in a spot where they can see you and your family but is still a distance away. Be slow and consistent in your attention and affection towards your dog. If you are too full on to begin with it will set up an unhealthy precedent and could lead to separation anxiety. Maintain your usual routine so your dog becomes used to their new surrounds and life quicker. Serve their meals somewhere calm and quiet. Make plenty of time for regular exercise and playtime, which are crucial to your dog's happiness and wellbeing. Make sure they receive lots of socialisation and appropriate training And never, ever physically punish your dog. Feature image credit

Introducing your cat or kitten to a cat flap can be a very perplexing experience for them, and for you. But it doesn't have to be this way! Some cats will need no training on how to use a flap, however, for many cats that is not the case - so your intervention will be required. There are a variety of approaches you can try in order to teach your cat the beauty of using their very own door, where the world becomes their oyster! And once they know how, they'll be ever so happy they learnt! There is no right or wrong way to teach your cat how to use a cat flap, but the following offers some great advice and ideas on how to achieve a kitty that walks in and out of their cat flap with ease… To begin, you can either introduce your cat to the flap with it either already into position or just by holding it somewhere else in your house your cat feels comfortable. Generally the best thing to do is to start with the flap completely open. At this point you just want your cat to get used to the door and the idea of going through it. You can either tape the door open, hold it open with your hands, or ask someone to hold it for you. Next, you need to encourage your cat to go through the door and show them that it is a positive experience. You can do this by placing treats or hovering their favourite toys by the opening so they are likely to approach it and investigate. If they successfully approach the door, don't forget to let them eat the treat or have a play as a reward. This includes any form of interest, even if it's just a polite sniff! Now you are ready to teach your cat to go through the door. At this point, keep the flap completely open. You can place some treats or toys on the other side of the door to encourage your cat to step through. Alternatively, you can 'box' your cat in, making going through the door their only option. Otherwise, you can try and toss treats through the opening and wave toys in and out of the opening to entice your kitty through. Remember any progress should be rewarded! Once your cat has mastered going through the door, you will need to teach them to come back through. This would be a good time to now have the cat flap in its desired position. Surprisingly, many cats can get through the door fine, especially when it leads to the garden, but getting them to come back inside can be a challenge. Stand with your cat outside and make sure you get their attention. Make sure they watch you as your push more treats or toys through the door on to the floor on the other side. Otherwise it is a good idea to teach your cat the 'recall' command so once they have gone through the door you can call them to come back through it. Once your cat has mastered going in and out of the door, you can move onto the next stage, where you begin to lower the door, little by little - always praising your cat for positive attempts until the flap is completely closed. Hopefully at this stage, your cat won't have any trouble and will be able to figure out a method that's best for them to manoeuvre opening the flap. If your cat is struggling with a flap that is completely closed you could keep a tiny bit of it open so they are able to see an opening. If you have a bit of a fusspot, who knows how to open the door, but just doesn't want to - you will have to learn to walk away from the door and your wailing cat. It may be difficult at first, but they will soon realise they won't be rewarded for being lazy! Another great tip is to get your cat used to the sound of the flap opening and closing, which can bother some sensitive cats. Remember to reward them anytime they remain happy and unmoved by the sound of the flap. Hopefully by then you'll have a kitty who loves using their cat flap and the freedom that comes with it. Feature image credit  

You may think that once your puppy is toilet trained, for the rest of their life you'll never have to contend with accidents occuring inside your home. Think again. It's not uncommon for adult dogs to begin soiling inside the home for seemingly no apparent reason. However, there is generally always a medical or behavioural reason and as a doggy parent, it's up to you to investigate and find out why. Where in the house your dog innappropriately uses the toilet can give you an insight to a possible cause, but first and foremost, you should take your dog to the vet to rule out any medical causes. Medical reasons for indoor soiling include: Gastrointestinal upset Change in diet Incontinence caused by an unknown medical problem. Reaction to a particular medication. Age-related incontinence/cognitive dysfunction. If your vet rules out any medical causes for this sudden onset of indoor toilet use, then it may indeed be caused by a behavioural problem. Behavioural reasons for indoor soiling include: Lack of house training Incomplete house training Breakdown in house training A surface preference Anxiety Fear of going outside Dislike of cold or rainy conditions Urine marking Separation anxiety Submissive/excitement urination Treating indoor elimination, totally depends on what the cause is. Only once you know the root cause will you be able to successfully stop the troubled toilet times. However there are some general tips you can adopt to help the situation. General useful tips Have a consistent feeding schedule and don't leave food out between meals. Take your dog outside frequently, particularly first thing in the morning and last thing at night. Adult dogs should be taken outside at least four times a day. Be aware of where your dog is at all times. When you take your dog outside to go to the toilet, stay with them and reward them each time they eliminate outside so positive associations can be made. Don'ts for toilet training Never punish your dog for going to the toilet in inappropriate places or rub their noses in it. If you see your dog going to the toilet, make noises to stop them and take them outside straightaway. Once they have used the toilet outside, praise them and reward them for doing so. Never physically punish your dog. Avoid cleaning up using ammonia. Urine also contains ammonia so it may only encourage your dog to urinate there again. Instead, use a cleaning product specifically for pets. Never punish your dog without attempting to train them to correct their behaviour. Accept that if your don't catch your dog in the act of going to the toilet there is nothing you can do. Punishing them after they have already done it, is not going to improve their chances or correcting their behaviour.

Asthma is not an ailment limited to humans - even your cat cat suffer from this chronic condition. If your cat is asthmatic or has recently been diagnosed as such, getting them to take their medication can be a difficult but necessary ordeal. Asthma is the the build-up of excess mucous and inflammation of the airways. Muscles spasms constrict the airways which also contributes to respiratory distress. If your cat is diagnosed with asthma by a vet, they may be prescribed medications like corticosteroids or bronchiodilators. You may even choose to combine traditional medicines with accompanying holistic therapies. However if your cat has severe asthma, they will more than likely be required to use a nebuliser. A nebuliser is a device that administers medicine in the form of an aerosolised mist which is then inhaled into the lungs, delivering relief. Nebulisers are used not only to treat asthma but other respiratory conditions like pneumonia and bronchitis, where they administer antibiotics and other medications. Nebulisers are the most effective way to deliver quick relief to constricted airways. Nebulisers generally come in two forms: a tabletop or portable version. Tabletop nebulisers have to be plugged into a power point and are quite large and bulky but are less expensive than portable versions. A portable nebuliser requires batteries and is hand-held. They are popular because you can keep them with you at all times, which is reassuring in case of emergencies. Your cat's personality will determine which way to give them their nebuliser is going to be best:   If you have a nervous cat… If your cat is a real scaredy cat then a good idea is to place them in a cage or crate along with the nebuliser and place a towel over it to create a chamber. Alternatively, you can do the same thing by placing your kitty inside a small room, like the laundry or bathroom. Be aware though, you can loose a lot of medicine, and therefore money this way because not all of the medicine will make its way into your cat's lungs. If you have a relaxed kitty... Lucky you! If your cat is more than happy with be manhandled then you will be able to try these more effective methods: Hold the mouthpiece of the nebuliser close to your pet's mouth and nose and they will be able to inhale most (but not all) of the medicine. By far, the most effective way is to purchase a soft, paediatric nebuliser mask and place if over your cat's mouth and nose. This way all of the medicine enters your cats lungs and provides the most benefits and relief. Keep in mind that you should always first speak to your vet to check how much medication should be given per dose. If you are generally having a nightmare each time you try to give your cat their much needed medication, try these tips and tricks for a more calm and effective experience: Remain calm at all times: your cat will easily pick up on any nervous energy and tension and will quickly associate taking their nebuliser as a negative experience. Set up a regular routine so your cat will quickly become accustomed to the idea of taking their nebuliser. Try to do it at the same time of the day or after a particular activity. Speak calmly to your pet and about the nebuliser and give a couple of reassuring pats on the head. After each successful attempt at taking the nebuliser, remember to reward your pet so positive associations quickly develop. If you are using a nebuliser mask, you could put a little bit of food inside it to coax your pet to put their face in to it (and provide a small distraction). Once you've given the treatment, allow your cat some space to calm down - but don't forget to reward them!

Just like humans, some dogs are more energetic than others. Perhaps your own dog is one of these pooches with seemingly endless energy and enthusiasm. You may even call your dog hyperactive. It may even drive you a little crazy at times and that's understandable. But is your dog truly hyperactive, or are they just high-energy? While at first, it may seem that these two terms are mutually exclusive, they in fact mean two very different things and require different remedies to help ease the situation and make your energetic dog more calm. What is Hyperactivity? Essentially the dog version of Attention Deficit Hyper-Activity Disorder (ADHD), hyperactivity is also known as hyperkinesis. Symptoms of hyperactivity include: Frantic activity Extremely short attention span Extremely impulsive High degree of attention seeking behaviour Unable to focus on a single task Distracted very easily Sensitive to sudden changes Overreacting to the presence of a new person or other animal Struggle to adjust to new stimulus Struggle with repetitive tasks Become bored very easily Destructive Emotionally unstable Cannot handle being physically restrained If your dog displays some of these symptoms there may be a chance that they are hyperactive. Just like humans with ADHD, your dog may benefit from taking stimulants to help them focus and pay attention. Speak to your vet about your options. High-energy dogs Unlike hyperactive dogs, high-energy pooches are excellent at quickly focusing on a single task and this is a great way of knowing whether your dog is hyperactive or just high-energy. High-energy dogs, while they can be unruly, are able to control their behaviour once they have been properly taught. Sporting and hunting breeds of dogs have a genetic predisposition to being high-energy. Other reasons for high-energy in dogs include: Lack of proper exercise Lack of socialisation Owners not meeting their particular breed of dog's needs or understanding their behaviour Poor breeding and socialisation as a puppy Lack of training and obedience. How to help a high-energy dog Provide more training Play interactive games Teach new tricks Provide more exercise Rotate their toys Increase their socialisation by introducing them to new people, places and other dogs Introduce a more structured routine

When choosing the right dog for you and your family, it’s important to consider the “shed factor.” Although all breeds shed, there are some that shed a lot less than others. If you have allergies, a dog on the lighter end of the shedding spectrum is probably best for your health. Even if you don’t suffer from allergies, you should make sure you can commit to regular grooming and the potential clean up required for a dog who sheds a decent amount. Continue reading below to understand more about shedding and the factors that influence it.  Why do dogs shed? Shedding by definition is a process of losing old or damaged hair. All animals shed, though the amount depends on several factors: 1. Coat Type Dog’s with undercoats tend to shed more than those without. The undercoat is the hair underneath what is known as the guard coat. Unlike the guard coat which sheds all year round, the undercoat sheds with the seasons. When winter is on it’s way, dogs shed their lighter undercoat and grow in a much thicker one for the cold, and vice versa for the summertime. As you can imagine, a dog with two coats is going to shed more hair than a dog with one. It’s also true that dogs with long fine hair, wiry or curly hair shed less. The reason for this lies in the natural life cycle of hair follicles. Follicles have two phases: a growing phase and a shedding phase. A dog who has hair that is continuously in the growing phase, such as a Yorkshire Terrier, will shed less. On the other hand, short haired breeds like a Dalmation will shed more because their hair follicles do not live as long.   2. Health & Nutrition A dog whose diet is lacking protein will also shed more often. Absorbable proteins in food keep a dog’s skin oiled and healthy. Without these proteins the skin suffers and in turn, so do the hair follicles. A dog’s coat will become dry and brittle, with hair that breaks off easily especially around the back and hips. A dog that scratches himself frequently or a dog that is very stressed out, will also show signs of increased shedding. 3. Environmental Factors Shedding is associated with the change in seasons so it makes sense that temperature and sunlight - specifically the length of the day - influence the process. However, most dogs live indoors where the temperature is consistent and the light is artificial. Because of this, dogs tend to shed continuously throughout the year as opposed to an annual or biannual shed. 4. Other Factors Hormones Pregnancy Overbathing Best & Worst Breeds For Shedding  There is no such thing as a non-shedding dog, but there are breeds that shed very little. These breeds have less undercoat, continually growing hair, and are sometimes referred to as hypoallergenic. Though the term “hypoallergenic” is considered a myth by many, it is true that a dog that sheds less will spread less of it’s dander. Less dander around the home means less of an opportunity to cause symptoms for allergy sufferers. Some of the most common light shedders:  Poodle Irish Water Spaniel Bichon Frise Portuguese Water Dog Miniature Schnauzer The majority of dog breeds shed a decent amount, but as I’m sure you’ve noticed, this hasn’t stopped people from adopting them and bringing them into their homes. To give you an idea, here’s a sample list of dogs that shed a good amount: Corgi American Eskimo Labrador Retriever Pug Newfoundland Tips For a dog with a healthy coat, shedding is a normal process that can’t be stopped. What you can do instead is prevent the dead hair from spreading all over your home. The only way to do so is with frequent grooming. Brush your dog regularly with a brush or comb that’s right for your dog’s coat type. There are many different kinds of brushes each with their own function, so it’s not uncommon to need more than one type. Before you bring home a dog, make sure you’re willing to commit to the grooming and cleaning that may be required, especially if there’s someone in your home with allergies. For a complete list of breeds that can be sorted by amount of shedding, check out Purina’s dog breed library here.