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Pet Bucket Blog
Filtered by tag ('tips and tricks')
Most cats prefer to be left home, but if you’re traveling somewhere together or just need to take your cat to the vet, follow these tips for a safe trip in the summer time.
Cats in cars
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No matter the time of year, the safest way to transport your cat in the car is to keep them in a carrier in the backseat. Remember, just because your cat is in the carrier, doesn’t mean you shouldn’t buckle them in! By securing the seat belt around the front of the carrier, you’ll prevent it from bouncing around and potentially injuring your cat.
Heat hazard
Even though 72°F weather doesn't sound very hot, this temperature could be life-threatening to a cat left in a car. It only takes one hour for the inside of a car to reach 116°F - and that’s only when it’s 72°F. On an even hotter day, it only takes 10 minutes reach temperatures over 100°F.
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That being so, you should never leave your cat in a car during the heat of summer. Such conditions will put your cat at risk for heatstroke, a fever caused by the body being incapable of regulating such high temperatures. The symptoms of heatstroke range from agitation and heavy panting, to coma and death if left untreated.
Keep your cat cool
If you’re going to be in the car for awhile, keep the air conditioning on or the windows open to allow ventilation. Make sure not to cover your cat’s carrier in a way that will prevent air flow through the carrier’s holes. Another way to keep your cat cool is to place an ice pack wrapped in a towel or sock inside the carrier.
Pit stops
If your journey requires pitstops, try to park in a shaded area with the windows completely down. You should never leave your cat unattended - a quick run into the convenience store could easily turn into a 10-15 minute ordeal. If you need to get out of your car for a rest or bathroom break, place the carrier in a grassy, shaded area and give your cat some water. Have someone watch your cat while you’re away, and look for any signs of heat stroke.
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If you want to set your dog up with a furry friend but don't know where to begin, here are some simple tips to create both a fun and safe environment for your dog's playdate.
1. Set the playdate up in a safe, neutral environment
This could be a dog park, dog-friendly beach, nature reserve, or any neutral environment for a first meeting. The most important thing is that both dogs will feel comfortable in the environment. For an initial play date, it may not be the best idea to hold the play date at someone’s house as some dogs may feel their space is being invaded.
2. Choose your dog's date wisely
To ensure no bullying goes on during the playdate, it’s best to set up dogs who have the same temperament and energy levels. Matching a senior dog with a puppy probably won't be fun for either dog involved. It’s also important to make sure the dogs are similar in size incase playing gets physical.
3. Let the dogs greet each other and see how they react
Compatibility can be determined within the first few minutes that two dogs meet. With the dogs leashed, allow the dogs to sniff and interact while paying attention for any sign of aggression. If aggression is shown, separate the dogs for a few minutes and try again. If once again the dogs don’t get along, the play date should end. It’s better to be safe than sorry.
4. The more toys the merrier
Put out a variety of toys to make play time more interesting for your dog and their companions. Whether it’s throwing a ball and having the dogs race to catch it, or providing a rope for a tug-of-war contest, toys are sure to add even more fun to the date.
5. Supervise the playing
Keep a lookout to make sure both dogs are enjoying themselves and are comfortable with one another. If playing gets too aggressive or you think one dog is bullying the other, it may be time to break things up.
6. Provide breaks, water, and shade
It’s important to break up play every so often to let the dogs have a quick cool down. The best ways to do this are to call your dog enthusiastically, or bribe them with a favorite toy or treat. If the playdate is going on outside, make sure to keep your dog hydrated and cool in the shade during the breaks.
What is it?
Nipping, also known as gentle mouthing is not biting. It's something that puppies do a lot of and most of the time it's while they play. Controlling the force of their nipping or gentle mouthing is called bite inhibition and usually puppies quickly learn this ability when they are frequently socialised. It's important that your puppy learns to control their bite inhibition from a young age so they don't carry bad habits into adulthood. Puppies will often learn bite inhibition while they are still with their litter and will grasp that nipping can often lead to a period of ostracization so quickly learn to control their bite so play time can continue!
Why do puppies do it?
Puppies nip because, well, they're puppies! Nipping is a part of their development that lasts until they are six to nine months of age, sometimes older. Other reasons for nipping include:
• Teething
• Learn more about dog culture
• Makes life more exciting!
Why they should learn not to nip
While it's all pretty painless and rather cute when they are puppies, if bite inhibition and nipping behaviour is not curbed it will become an unattractive and troublesome quality in your pooch as they enter adulthood. If your objective is to have a well turned out, obedient adult dog then you must teach them to control their bite inhibition.
How to stop it?
Your goal out of all of this is to a.) teach your puppy that like other dogs, humans also have very sensitive skin, so care must be taken when they use their mouth and b.) to stop mouthing and biting altogether.
To successfully teach your dog to quit their nipping habit, you will need to be consistent and regularly attend to your dog's bite strength. You will have to monitor their biting behaviour throughout their entire life. Fortunately, if you start teaching them young, your dog is bound to carry on with their excellent behaviour, without much need to intervene when they are older.
The first thing you will have to do is focus on your puppy's tooth pressure. Allow your pooch to place their teeth on you but it's up to you as to how much pressure they can apply. Every consequential play session, less pressure is allowed. If/when your puppy nips harder than allowed say a word that signifies a mistake - something like "Oops" will do. Once you say your word, stop playing straightaway and look away from your puppy for around 10 seconds and make sure you ignore your pup. Once the embargo is over, begin playing again in your usual friendly way. Like when they were in the littler, your pup is quickly learning to correlate nipping with no play so will be eager to be more careful with their teeth so play time is never over!
As soon as your puppy has mastered the art of being careful with their teeth, you will now need to teach them to not use their teeth at all on skin or clothing. To achieve this, you carry on as you were before when teaching them to watch the pressure of their teeth, except as soon as their teeth touches your skin, your say your magic mistake word and put them in to time out - even if you know it was a mistake. Following this method, your puppy will become a perfect, gentle pooch.
Tips for a nip-free puppy
If your puppy is coming from a breeder, try and wait for a long as possible (at least eight weeks) before bringing them home.
Arrange plenty of play dates with other puppies and friendly (vaccinated) adult dogs. Socialising your dog in a variety of environments, increases their confidence, which helps to eliminate nipping.
Make sure you have plenty of different and interesting toys for your pooch to chew on.
Learn to 'be a tree' for when your puppy gets a little boisterous.
Hand-feeding your dog increases your bond and allows more practice time for learning to mouth politely.
Get your puppy started in obedience classes as soon as you can!
Make sure your puppy is getting plenty of mental and physical stimulation.
If your dog is getting a little out of control with their nipping, you can distract them by feeding them treats using your other hand to encourage them to tone down their nipping.
Diversify with non-contact forms of play.
Cats tend not to be keen on strangers in the house, new environments or hustle and bustle, making the general craziness of a house move a kind of feline nightmare. But with planning and sensitivity to your kitty’s fears and needs, it is possible to engineer a cat-move that is almost stress-free.
Here are our suggestions on how to turn kitty’s journey into an adventure rather than a nightmare.
On moving day, create a cat cave
A cat left to wander the house or roam outside during a move is liable not only to get frightened by all the unexpected activity but also possibly get under the feet of removalists carrying heavy furniture – not a happy prospect! The best solution is to find an area in your house to lock your cat, such as the bathroom or laundry, fitted out with food and water bowls, a litter tray and toys.
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A sign on the door of this safe haven warning others that the cat is relaxing inside should mean your cat is sheltered from much of the strange noises and sights as their current home is packed up and moved out.
The car trip itself…
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Wait until everything has been fully packed up before disturbing your cat. Place them in their crate and in the car, covering it with a towel to make it dark and extra relaxing if your cat starts to become stressed.
Depending on how far away your new house is, you may need to stop to give your cat some water. We recommend climbing in the back seat with your cat and shutting the car before you open the cage, to prevent your cat shooting past and out into an unfamiliar environment where you may not be able to find them again.
When you arrive, take it slow
It is best when releasing your cat into your new house to introduce each room one at a time rather than possibly overwhelming them with the experience of a vast alien environment. Cats are naturally territorial, meaning they attach very strongly to their established home range and are highly suspicious of new places where other cats may, in their minds, be present waiting to attack, not to mention other unknown threats that may exist.
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It is best to find a room, like the laundry or bathroom, to act as their ‘home base’. Gradually expand their range as they become comfortable with each new area. Pheromone diffusers or old bedding that smells like your cat not only relaxes and comforts your kitty but is a useful way to get them to adjust to each new room your introduce them to.
If your cat lived outdoors previously, we recommend not letting them outside for some time when you first move in, as they may be inclined to roam, searching for their old range and become lost. After at least two weeks you can release them, making sure they have a collar with a tag as well as a microchip in case they find themselves unable to remember their way back to their family.
With a bit of time and care, your cat should be just as pleased with their new home as you are!
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The doggy paddle comes instinctually to dogs, but that doesn’t mean that a bit of canine swim school isn’t helpful for pooches interacting with water for the first time.
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Some breeds such as the golden retriever and Portuguese water dog take to water like ducks, but for many dogs, just as with children learning to swim, a pool or the surf can seem a frightening prospect at first. But with a bit of help from their loving owners, most dogs will learn to love water and how to swim like champions.
The first step to creating an aqua dog is getting them to find the prospect of getting their paws wet exciting rather than horrifying. Some pups are keen from the start, which makes things easier, but others aren’t so sure.
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We recommend finding a small kiddy pool or using your bathtub and filling it with a little water. Place your dog gently in and praise and treat them copiously so they come to realise wonderful things happen when they are near water. Gradually increase the water level over time so you dog becomes confident even when submersed.
Once your dog is happy with water, swim training can begin. A dog life vest is a great idea which not only will keep your dog safe even when they are skilled swimmers, but will also help them keep buoyant – just like kids with floaties – so they can focus their energies on mastering the paddling movement without the fear of sinking beneath the water. Basset hounds, bulldogs, dachshunds, pugs and corgis are some breeds that really struggle with water sports and really require additional support out of necessity on all their swims.
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Depending on the size of your dog, the kiddy pool might be sufficiently deep once filled to be your training zone. All you need to make sure is that your dog’s paws can’t touch the bottom. For larger dogs, you may need to go on a scouting mission to find a small pond or shallow lake. The beach, while exciting, is probably not the best choice as waves can unnerve and unbalance dogs learning swim skills.
To start training, gently coax your dog into the water. Be prepared for them to get a bit of a fright when their feet don’t touch the bottom. Stay calm and praise them for being brave. They may go forwards of their own volition, but if not try getting a treat to place in front of their nose to encourage them to start moving around the water.
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Keep training sessions short at first to keep your dog from feeling exhausted or overwhelmed by the new experience. As your dog’s confidence builds, try progressively deeper water and longer swim times – and then even the challenge of waves.
Practice makes perfect – with time, you’ll have a super confident and expert swimmer on your hands! Then it might be time to try doggie surfing?
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Puppies can be hyperactive super-charged balls of fun – but sometimes they can put all that energy into worrying. Here are our tips on how to best calm your little friend down:
1. Ignore your pup until they start acting a little more sensible
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It may sound harsh, but if you speak to your puppy every time they jump on you and cry their behaviour is reinforced by your attention. Puppies can even prefer scolding and act out purposefully to attract your gaze rather than suffer being left to themselves. Gently ignoring them when they are too silly for their own good can be the best deterrent for over-rambunctiousness or whining.
To encourage positive behaviour - whenever they are quiet, give them a treat or praise them for being a good dog.
2. Give them a work out
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Exercise not only improves you puppy’s health, it can also be a great way to use up extra energy and excited nerves. Afterwards your puppy will probably be more than happy to curl up and go to sleep in a nice soft spot in the house.
3. Practice the art of re-direction
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When your puppy starts worrying, one solution is to distract them with something else you would prefer they focused upon, such as a chew toy, or practice your newest training command.
4. Create a puppy retreat
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Does your puppy have somewhere pleasant to relax? Make sure you have a cosy puppy corner a dog would love to spend time in, with a soft bed and some favourite toys. Dogs prefer to be in proximity to their ‘pack’ so place it far enough away they avoid the traffic of the family home, but can still see and hear you.
A ticking clock wrapped in a towel or a sock can be a good addition to a puppy’s bedding as the tick mimics the sound of their mother’s heartbeat and is something they find naturally relaxing. A hot water bottle to keep them warm and remind them of the feeling of being curled up with their brothers and sisters can also be a helpful addition.
5. Establish a strict routine
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Like most animals, dogs thrive on predictability. It may sound boring, but a daily schedule that stays about the same can be comforting to dogs young and old. Feeding, exercising and playing in a routine manner can help to calm over-excited and nervous pups.
6. Keep your cool
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It is important when trying to get your puppy to relax you set a good example and remain calm and collected no matter what mischief they get up to. If you get frustrated and shout it is more likely to encourage hyperactive behaviour than discourage it. Being calm and consistent with your responses is the way to get the best out of your pup.
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When you're stocking up to refill your cat's litter box, you'll notice that there are many different types of kitty litter available. As it turns out, litter largely falls into four main classifications, each with its unique pros and cons.
Traditional clay litter
Clay kitty litter is easy to find, affordable and relatively effective. Clay absorbs liquid very well, separating the urine in a way that helps with odor control, and some types of clay litter will also include extra ingredients (such as charcoal) to help suppress unpleasant smells for longer. Unfortunately, however, traditional clay litter needs to be thrown away and replaced at least once each week, and it can be quite dusty.
Clumping litter
Technically a type of clay litter, clumping litter includes bentonite, prompting the litter to clump into easily removable lumps when exposed to urine. The convenience of clumping kitty litter is further heightened by the fact that it doesn't all need to be removed on a regular basis (as it is easy to remove the soiled clumps and simply top up the litter tray).
Silica litter
Silica gel is used to make a crystallized form of kitty litter that absorbs moisture in the same way that silica gel packets help to preserve foods that are vulnerable to moisture. One of the big selling points of this type of litter is that it helps to mitigate the unpleasant smell of your cat's waste more effectively than clay litters. As a bonus, silica litter also produces very little dust and it can be quite cost-effective as a result of being extremely absorbent. The major con of this type of product is that there is no clear consensus on whether (or to what extent) silica litter is toxic to cats. Since cats can sometimes eat their litter as a result of behavioral problems or nutritional deficiencies, some owners worry about the safety of silica litter.
Biodegradable litter
If you want to have a more environmentally friendly home, biodegradable kitty litter can be a helpful choice and are made from materials as diverse as recycled paper and corn. Biodegradable litters are usually pellets that disintegrate into dust in response to moisture, absorbing the odor. In addition, there are no obvious safety concerns associated with these types of litter, and some of them can even be flushed down the toilet. If you have allergies or have a cat with respiratory problems, the lack of irritating dust associated with most biodegradable litters can be a further benefit.
Finally, it's important to note that the kitty litter that you end up with may well be partly dictated by your cat's preferences. Some pets are fussy about the texture or scent of certain types of litter, and may refuse to use the litter box properly unless you change to a new product. Trial and error will help you to find a kitty litter that suits both you and your pet.
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Going away on holiday should be a relaxing time for your cat as well as yourself. As a cat owner, it can be really difficult to decide where your cat should stay while you're away and who should be in charge of looking after your precious feline friend.
Your cat's needs will need to be at the forefront of your mind before making a choice. Are they independent or crave the company of others? Are they an indoor or outdoor cat? Are they quite adaptable to change? Do they get on well with other animals?
Cats are creatures of habit, and generally prefer the surroundings of their home, so if possible try to keep them there, either with someone coming to stay or at least checking in on your cat twice a day. By keeping your cat at home, they will feel more calm and won't have their routine disrupted.
Your cat staying at home
When choosing someone to look after your cat, it would be best to ask someone who already knows your cat, or has experience looking after a cat and importantly- enjoys doing it. It's also good to choose someone your cat also likes and is familiar with.
If your cat likes the company of others, then having someone stay would be perfect, if not, at least have them drop by twice a day. They would have to be responsible for feeding, providing water, scooping the litter box, checking for any signs of ill health, letting your cat in or out if they are an outdoor cat and of course interact or play with your cat.
Make sure that you communicate with your cat's carer all their little nuances to avoid further disrupting your cat or inflame anxiety. It's important that whoever if looking after your cat, they keep a close eye on any changes to their behaviour, such as not eating and to take action if need be.
Before you go on holiday, make sure you leave somewhere obvious information about emergency contacts, particularly vet information. In addition leave some unwashed clothes of yours around your house, so your cat can still pick up on your scent and help them feel at ease.
If your cat is going to be mostly home alone, make sure all electrical cords are unplugged and out of reach and that any large items are removed so they don't get knocked over and potentially hurt your cat. Keep your blinds or curtains open so your cat can see outdoors - which will be able to provide them with lots of entertainment. Also, it's important to remember that you need to keep the temperature of the house warm or cool enough depending on the season.
Your cat staying with a friend
If it's not possible for your cat to stay at home, then having them go to stay with a friend is another option. If your cat has proven to be adaptable in the past, then chances are they will cope well being away from you AND being in a strange environment.
In the lead up to you going away take your cat over to their soon-to-be temporary home to see how they react to the new environment and how they interact with other pets and/or children that might be there. Try and do this a few times. Better still, send your cat to stay there a couple of days before you set off, so you can get any reports on how things are going and can make any last minute arrangements if things go pear-shaped.
What about a pet hotel?
If neither of the above options are viable then you could consider a pet hotel. While it can be very stressful for your cat to be in a new environment, with new people - remember that the people who work at pet hotels are professionals who are trained to look after cats and can spot any signs of ill health and stress. And you never know, maybe by the time you return home, your cat will be having a ball!
No matter what option you choose, keep your stress levels down by requesting daily updates via email or text from who ever is looking after your cat. Remember to think about what sort of personality your cat has and consider what the best options for them are. You will have a much more relaxing holiday knowing that your cat is perfectly content.
Throughout your dog's life you are going to be struggling to determine its mood. Whether your dog is happy, sad, or mad, it cannot simply walk up to you and tell you as much in clear English. However, that doesn't mean it is impossible to determine if your dog is happy. Your dog will use other signals to let you know if it's feeling cheerful. So what are those signs?
1. Body Language
Your dog may not be able to speak a language, but it can use its entire body to send you signals about its mood. From its head to its tail, your dog will use body language to let you know if it is happy, mad, or sad. Typically, a happy dog is easy to spot because it will appear as if its entire body is wiggling with anticipation. This is most likely the look you get each day when you get home from work.
Additionally, the general stance of your dog will reveal a lot about its mood. A dog that stands confidently on all four feet, with its body relaxed and head up, is a happy dog.
2. Behavior
When your dog is happy, it will be willing and eager to play with you. As you approach your dog for some play time, the easiest way to determine its happiness is in the stance it takes. If your dog sticks its hind quarters up in the air and lowers its head toward the floor, it is happy and eager to play.
In some cases, your dog may even use its voice in conjunction with this behavior to drive the point home. Short, high-pitched barks, howls, and squeals are another sign that your dog is ready to goof around.
3. How About a Scratch?
Every dog owner has either experienced firsthand or seen another dog that goes into a blissful state when receiving a belly rub. If your dog has no issues rolling over on its back to display its belly for a rub, then you have a very happy (and trusting) dog on your hands. Generally speaking, any time your dog initiates physical contact with you it is trying to tell you that it is happy and wants to be around you.
Reward all of these behaviors with some physical contact. When your dog rolls over on its back hoping for a rub, take a few minutes out of your day to give it a scratch. In the process, you ensure your dog remains happy and the sense of trust between owner and dog continues to grow.
4. Quiet Demeanor
Last but not least, a quiet dog is often a happy dog. If your dog is quietly and contently lounging around next to you, it is a safe bet that you have a happy dog. The fact that it is so relaxed is a sign that your dog is happy to be in your presence and feels safe when you are around. The more time you devote to the activities and behaviors that create these physical responses in your dog, the more likely you are to have a happy and mentally healthy dog.
When you decide to adopt a kitten, there’s several things you should consider besides which one is the cutest. That adorable little kitten could be part of your life for the next 10, 15, or even 20 years, which is why it’s important that you select the kitten that is right for you and your home. With an abundance of cats to choose from, it’s best to start by asking yourself the basics:
Male or female?
This is completely preference. As long as a kitten is spayed or neutered, there is little to no difference in personality between genders.
Long-haired or short-haired?
Again, the answer comes down to your preference. Both long-haired and short-haired cats will shed, but long-haired cats will require daily brushing to prevent matting. If you choose a long-haired breed, make sure you are willing to devote time to regular grooming.
Purebred or domestic?
Most shelter cats are considered domestic, meaning they are mixed breed cats. In general, they tend to be healthier because their gene pools are more diverse. If you’re considering a purebred, do your research and choose one with the right personality for you and your family. Ask yourself if you want a lazy lap cat, or a cat with a bit of a wild side. Also note that some breeds are prone to certain medical conditions.
Purrsonality
There are a few things you can look for to determine a kitten’s personality:
1. Observe the litter. How does each kitten interact with their siblings? You should be able to tell things like which is the troublemaker or who is shy. Kittens should be playful and curious. If they’re hissing or hiding they probably haven’t been socialized well. This could be a big issue if you have other pets, or small children in your home.
2. Hold the kittens. Some kittens will purr and cuddle when held, while others will try and use you as a climbing post. The latter is likely to have a more energetic personality, whereas the first is likely to be more of a lap cat.
3. Observe mama cat. As the saying goes, the apple doesn’t fall too far from the tree. If the mom seems comfortable with people, chances are so are her babies. This doesn’t mean you shouldn’t consider a kitten taken from a feral mother. With the right amount of love and affection, these kittens too can make wonderful companions.
Health
The signs of a healthy kitten include clear eyes and nose, pink inner ears, and an odor free coat. Look for evidence of ringworm, fleas, mites, and diarrhea. You can also ask to have the kitten examined by a vet before committing to adoption, which reputable breeders should agree to.
Remember
Adopting a kitten is a life changing event! Do your research and consider each of the above points so you can be sure to choose the purrfect lifelong companion for you and your family.
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