Pet Bucket Blog

Some cats, when cuddled up on their owner’s lap, have a habit of taking a hold of part of their clothes in their mouth and sucking. It can be baffling behaviour for people who have not had a cat prone to it before – what on earth are they up to?   Why 'Sucking'?   Whilst it may seem peculiar, sucking cats are just continuing a natural kitten impulse into adulthood. Kittens suck on their mothers for milk, often kneading her body at the same time with their paws. Adult cats are simply treating their owner’s as ‘Mothers’, sucking their clothes and pawing as they would have as babies.   Image Credit   Though they don’t receive milk for their efforts, sucking clothing, like a child sucking its thumb, can be a comforting and relaxing thing to do for cats. Cats that have been weaned too early or orphaned are especially likely to engage in the behaviour, their reduced ‘childhood’ creating an infantile adult.   Sometimes sucking is simply an expression of relaxation, but it can also be a response to anxiety or boredom. If your cat seeks you out to suck, it may be a sign they have been fretting about something and sucking is their way of lowering their stress levels.    Image credit  Can I stop it?   If your cat only sucks occasionally and they seem otherwise happy with their life and only seem to do so out of affection, it may be best to just leave things be.   If it is a compulsive habit however, there are some actions you can take to help minimise your cat’s habit.   1. Get Up and Walk Away  If your cat starts sucking, simply place them gently on the ground and leave the room. This is a simple way of showing them their behaviour is not appreciated. Make sure you act as soon as the sucking occurs so your cat can make the association that sucking leads to the end of your petting session.   2. Distraction Distraction with toys or play can be another way to help break the compulsion. If your cat is prone to suck out of boredom, increased stimulation could take away the root issue - and their really is no cat that won’t benefit from increased environmental enrichment.   3. Kitty Chew Toys    Image Credit If your cat finds oral behaviours relaxing and you only want them to stop using you as their own personal sucking station think about buying them some cat chew toys. There are dental health cat toys that help clean your cat’s teeth and your kitty can suck and gnaw on them until their heart’s content. 4. Remove Stress If you are worried your cat is anxious, try discovering what in their environment might be causing them issues. Is it another cat in the house or neighbourhood? When the family dog barks? A change in the daily routine? If you can’t change what is upsetting your cat try adding more hidey-holes and cat poles to your home so your cat has lots of places to ‘escape’ their worries.    Image Credit Another possible solution is getting a feline pheromone diffuser. It has been shown to have positive effects of nervous cats and help reduce a wide variety of problem behaviours.    Feature Image Credit  

As some readers will know, certain dogs are petrified of going up and down stairs. To us it can seem silly - its just stairs! But it is important to keep in the forefront of your mind that your dog is not ‘pretending’ to be afraid or is just being strange. From their perspective their fear is entirely rational and justified. Just like a child petrified of thunder storms or the dark, the stairs for some reason have taken on monstrous proportions in their mind.    Image Credit It is often helpful when approaching this fear, or any other, to first try and determine where it might have come from. Has your dog fallen or tripped down the stairs and been in pain because of it? Might, if your dog is a rescue, it have been yelled or abused near or on a stairway? Or has it simply never encountered stairs before and finds them a new and alien addition to their environment?   To transform your dog into a champion stairmaster it is your job to change the stairs from Enemy No. 1 to the place where amazing, great things happen. Forcing or dragging a dog up and down is a big no-no – whilst it may make them actually physically climb the stairs, it can only reinforce their idea of the stairs as being a nasty place to be best avoided if possible. Instead, begin training with treats and toys on hand. Be patient and reward any progress, no matter how small, your dog makes towards conquering their fear. Hold the treat or toy over the bottom step and if they put their front paws on top in order to reach it praise and reward excessively. When the bottom step becomes no big deal, move onto the next one.    Image Credit Remember to pace yourself – 10 minute training sessions each day can often be better than an hour long session one a week where your dog’s attention span is strained and you start to become frustrated.   Also keep in mind once your dog has learnt to go upstairs, descending will be a new experience that will likely require a training process similar to what you have just completed.   Image Credit With patience, your dog should learn that stairs are harmless and nothing to be worried about.   However, if your dog has serious issues, and no amount of perseverance on your part seems to have any effect, it may be time to ask if your dog really needs to go upstairs or call in the services of a professional dog trainer. For some dogs, the severity of their worries may not be worth the distress they will suffer trying to conquer them and it may just be best to leave things be.    Feature Image Credit   

Does your cat do any of the following? Following you everywhere you go (yes, even to the bathroom). Sulking, meowing or slinking away while you are getting ready to leave the house. Crying or meowing when you have left the house or even when you're out of sight, (like when you're sleeping or taking a shower). Not eating when left home alone. Eliminating at the front door, on your clothing, or bedding. Destructive behaviour. Extremely positive greetings when you return home. If you said yes to one or more of these points - you probably have yourself a velcro kitty. But we're pretty sure you already know that because it's always very obvious! Some cat owners enjoy having a cat as their constant companion and find the dependence charming and very flattering - which is OK if you spend a lot of time at home. However, for owners who perhaps work 9-5 or are away a lot, it can be really difficult to deal with and at least makes you feel guilty. If you have a velcro cat, keep a close eye on their behaviour because your cat could easily develop separation anxiety - which is not pleasant for them to experience and will more than likely require some professional medical assistance. Possible reasons why your cat is stuck to you like velcro A naturally timid and insecure cat may feel a real desire for attention and reassurance from their owner. Boredom Emotional or physical discomfort - if the clingy behaviour has come on suddenly, visit your vet to eliminate any sinister health conditions. Neglegted as a kitten. Naturally more interactive and demanding. Another possible reason may be due to not enough training or assertiveness. While it's lovely to have a cat depend on you and enjoy your company, the cat shouldn't have you trained - it should be the other way around! How to help a velcro cat become less attached If you think the cause is due to separation anxiety or an underlying health condition, visit your vet. If you think it's because you are too lenient, start implementing some basic training or at  least, be more assertive - don't give in to cuddles in the middle of the night (stay strong!) Change your routine: If you hang around while your cat is eating or playing - stop doing it, so they get used to eating and playing on their own. If your cat is bored, check out these handy solutions here. Get another cat. This could work wonders, particularly if your cat is lonely or anxious. At the end of the day if you feel happy and content with your loving and affectionate, velcro kitty then that's great, however if it's becoming a problem not just for yourself but for your cat then there are ways to fix the situation. Feature image credit

Hand targeting is an extremely useful skill to teach your dog. Once your dog understands the basic behavior, you’ll be able to teach your dog a handful of tricks!   What Is Hand Targeting? Hand Targeting is exactly what it sounds like: your hand is the target, and your dog learns to, well, target it. When presented with an outstretched hand, your dog will touch their nose to it. If you’ve ever watched an agility competition, then you’ve noticed how the handler often uses their hand to navigate their dog through the obstacles.   Why Is It Useful? Teaching your dog to touch their nose to your palm can be useful in a variety of situations. You can use it to guide your dog onto a scale at the vet, to lead them through a crowded space, or to jump on and off of furniture. It can also function as “come”, and as a way to focus a nervous or aggressive dog.   How Can I Teach My Dog To Hand Target? Just like any other behavior, you’ll need treats and patience to get hand targeting down. Once you cut up pea-sized treats of something your dog likes and choose a quiet place, you can proceed with the following steps:   1. Hold out an empty hand approximately six inches away from your dog’s nose. Make sure your hand is level with your dog's nose. Most dogs will move towards your hand to investigate. The instant they touch your palm, say “Yes!” and reward them with a treat from your other hand.   Note: If your dog doesn’t move toward your hand, you can prompt the first few touches by either rubbing a treat on your hand (to make it smell more desirable), or removing your hand and then presenting it again a few seconds later to grab your dog’s attention.   2. Repeat the first step multiple times until you are confident your dog will touch your hand at six inches away. Now you can start presenting your hand in different places. Try a few inches left or right of their nose, towards the floor, and above their head. Don’t forget to say “Yes!” and reward them every time.   3. Once your dog reliably touches your hand, you can add a verbal cue such as “touch”, “target”, or “here." Say the cue prior to presenting your hand, and reward your dog when they touch it.   You should practice for a week or two, a few times a day. Presenting your hand 15-30 times each session shouldn’t take more than 5 minutes.   4. Now it’s time to practice in more distracting locations such as busier rooms in your home, your backyard, or during walks. If your dog struggles, revert to practicing in a quieter room until their confidence is regained.   The Fun Part Now that your hand has basically become a dog magnet, you can train your dog to do a variety of tricks including, “jump”, “spin”, and “say hi.” Hand targeting can also be used to teach your dog how to play hide and seek, and even how to close a door. The idea is that if you can train your dog to “touch” your hand, you can get them to touch other objects/people as well.

The first time you realise that your four legged friend is old can be quite an upsetting realisation. Maybe they didn't move when you called them, or perhaps a photograph you took illuminated all those grey hairs and tired eyes? The autumn years for your pooch requires a different level of care, so it's important to learn about the best ways to provide that care. What breed of dog you own will also determine when they are categorised as 'senior.' Generally, giant breeds have a shorter lifespan than smaller breeds so you can expect them to reach old age sooner. However, your dog's lifestyle - diet, exercise and medical history will also impact on the longevity of your dog. The best thing to do is to prepare yourself for this transition in both you and your dog's lives and to be on the lookout for changes so you can react quickly. Signs of old age in dogs Senses begin to deteriorate Appetite may decrease Weight loss - resulting in the shoulders and spine becoming more prominent. Energy levels decrease Slowing down Greying around the face and muzzle Thicker skin Rougher and thinner coat - potentially with bald patches or white hairs. Deafness Cloudy or bluish eyes Excessive thirst Uncontrolled urination Depression Disobediance Confusion Warts, fatty lumps or tumours - check these with your vet. Muscle loss - normal around the hind legs but if it occurs elsewhere, consult your vet. Sleeping more during the day, and less so at night. Arthritis and stiffness - difficulty playing, going up and down stairs, in and out of cars, trouble sleeping comfortably. Best care for senior dogs Make regular trips to the vet and when there always ask for a complete body evaluation. Maintain a regular exercise schedule, but reduce the longevity and intensity of your sessions. Change your dog's diet to one specifically formulated for senior dogs. If your dog has a health condition - consult your vet on ways you can change your dog's diet to suit their health needs. Change your dog's vaccination schedule to every three years. Keep your dog engaged with lots of affection and plenty of toys to keep their minds stimulated and stave off boredom. Installing gates and doors will prevent any arthritic dogs from attempting stairs that they shouldn't. Changing their bedding to suit their needs - plenty of padding for sore joints. Change the treats you give them to suit their older, worn teeth. Get in the habit of checking your dog often for any abnormalities. Look at the ears, mouth, teeth and gums, skin and coat. Maintain your regular flea, worming and tick treatments. Avoid harsh chemicals. Feature image credit

The movement and locomotion of a four-legged animal like a dog is very different to human locomotion. As a human being, you walk by moving one foot in front of the other. When you are walking, your lead foot hits the ground before the following foot leaves the ground. When you run, there is a space in your gait where both feet are briefly off the ground. This is as complicated as it gets for the human body.   Dogs, on the other hand, will move by walking, trotting, and pacing (sometimes called galloping). A dog's walking gait is similar to a human, with each foot touching the ground before another foot comes off the ground. However, the trotting and pacing gait in a dog is slightly more complex. A dog's trotting gait is most commonly used when it is running. The pacing gait in your dog is one form of movement which you, as the owner, should be paying close attention.   A dog's pacing gait is a unique movement compared to its walking or trotting gait. Pacing means that a dog is moving in what is called a two-time gait. This means that the legs on one side of dog's body are pushing off and landing at the same time. A pacing gait has nothing to do with speed of the movement, but rather the motion your dog uses during the movement. Your dog may use its pacing gait while walking or while trotting. Pacing is an efficient gait for dogs because it requires less effort and puts less stress on its body. When your dog trots there is a significant amount of rotational movement in its back. Pacing removes that rotational movement from the gait, requiring less effort from the body.   There are certain dog breeds that naturally prefer the pacing gait. Labradors and retrievers are known to prefer the pacing gait regardless of the circumstances (injury or fatigue). Additionally, dogs with long legs and short bodies will pace because it prevents their back feet from stepping on or otherwise interfering with their front feet. This occurs most frequently when these dogs are trotting though.   Aside from genetic reasons, dogs may use their pacing gait as a result of fatigue. As mentioned earlier, trotting requires a lot of rotational movement in a dog's back. This stresses the muscles in the back and around the hip joints. Switching from a trotting to a pacing gait relieves the stress on your dog's back and allows tired muscles to relax as it paces along instead.   If you notice that your dog is utilizing the pacing gait frequently during its walk or trot, you should pay close attention to this change. This could be a sign that your dog is experiencing pain and discomfort in its back. When your dog is not tired and is using its pacing gait with great frequency it could be a sign of arthritis in its spine or a problem with vertebrae in its back. When you notice excessive use of the pacing gait, it is recommended that you bring your dog into the vet for a checkup. It could just be aging and arthritis, but it could also be a more serious problem that requires medical attention. Feature image credit  

While some felines will practically fall over themselves trying to communicate their love or obtain your affection, other cats simply don't seem to like people at all. If your cat has an unknown history, or a wariness or dislike of people, it may unfortunately relate to past experiences of abuse or neglect. However, even cats that have experienced a pleasant upbringing may develop aloof or skittish personalities. Here are some tips if you own a cat that seems to mistrust or dislike people. Often, forming a good relationship with just one person can pave the way to a better view of humans in general. 1. Try sitting together on a regular basis If your cat doesn't like people, then being pulled into your lap will not be tolerated. Instead, try to find a more cautious way of sharing space. For example, try sitting down near your cat during a sleepy moment when the animal might be more receptive to your presence and to gentle petting. Eventually, you may be able to transition to cuddling: though, some cats never develop an enjoyment of being held. 2. Make sure that your cat associates you with meals Although it seems like a cheap tactic, you may sometimes find that you can buy your cat's trust by making sure that you are the one to provide food. If you always put the food dish out, your cat will learn that you are important, consistent and will continue to provide care. 3. Back off when told to If your cat feels threatened or annoyed then you may see hissing, growling and flattened ears. However, some cats will just use one of these warning signs at a time and if your pet is just a little uncomfortable then you might notice jerky tail movements and see that the cat is ducking away from your hand. Any time your advances appear to be unwelcome, a willingness to back off will demonstrate that you are less threatening and help your pet to feel more in control of the situation. 4. Be careful about eye contact If you stare into your cat's eyes for a long time, this indicates a desire to assert dominance (even though you may be thinking nothing of the kind). To show your pet that you are friendly, unthreatening and kind, look down after making eye contact. Some experts also advise showing your cat long, slow blinks during eye contact. 5. Engage in gentle play A poorly socialized cat that struggles to relate to humans may not be interested in playing with you at first, or you might find that play ends in a painful scratch or bite. Where possible, try to reward your pet if the cat takes part in fun play that doesn't involve any form of attack on you. It can be smart to give your cat the occasional treat to reinforce good behavior, but try not to overdo it due the unhealthy nature of most cat treats. Feature image credit  

It's impossible to keep an eye on your dog all the time, so there may be instances in your pooch's life where they come into contact with some nasty critters. Different climates, locations and seasons will impact what possible creatures your dog may have a run in with, so it's important to be aware, remain dilligent and know how to treat various stings or wounds that may be inflicted upon your pet. Spiders Black Widow Spider Image credit Spiders can be harmful to your pets and what makes matters worse is that it's not easy to detect a spider bite straight up. Many spiders are not capable of biting through your dog's thick skin, but the black widow, red back, brown widow and brown recluse are types of spiders that can be very harmful to your dog, so if you live in a region where these spiders are known to inhabit, it's a good idea to start learning how to identify them. Signs and symptoms The type of spider and how many times your dog has been bitten will determine what signs and symptoms your dog may display and experience. These include: Inflammation (redness, swelling) in areas that have less hair; paws, eyelids, joints, earflaps, mouth, nose, stomach. Abnormal lesions Breathlessness Fur loss Fever and joint pain Restless and distressed Licking the infected area - you may even see the puncture marks. Vomiting and diarrhea may occur. Increased anxiousness or excitement. Rigid muscles Vocalising loudly Lack of coordination Paralysis Seizures How to help If you suspect your dog has been bitten by a spider, take them to your vet as soon as you can so they can receive the appropriate anti-venom medication. Snakes   Copperhead Snake Image credit Snakes are more of a problem during the summer months and unfortunately dogs can easily become victim of a snake bite after becoming a little too curious about their new pal slithering around. Snake bites have varying levels of severity depending on the type of snake, how much venom there was and where the snake bit. The beginning of summer is when snake bites are at their most dangerous because the venom glands are much fuller. Signs and symptoms Most dogs can recover from a snake bite within 48 hours, however it all comes down to identifying it (the bite) and getting help as soon as possible. Again, there are a number of variables when it comes to knowing whether or not your dog has been bitten by a snake. Most common signs and symptoms include: Weakness and/or collapse Shaking or twitching of muscles Difficulty blinking Dilated pupils that are not responsive to light. Vomiting Blood in urine Loss of bladder and/or bowel control And at later stages, paralysis How to help Preventing a snake bite is the most ideal situation. Be aware of what snakes are common to your local area and know how to identify them. As mentioned, snakes are most active during summer so when out walking your dog, keep them on a lead, especially near bushland or long grass. At home, keep your grass short and make sure the area is clear of any piles of rubbish and any potential hiding places like wood piles or sheets of materials. However, if your dog has indeed been bitten by a snake follow this method to help ease the situation: Keep yourself and your pet calm. Stress and anxiety can make venom move through your dog's system more quickly. Get to the vet immediately. If you live a fair distance from your vet, apply a pressure bandage around the bite to help slow the spread of poison. DON'T wash the wound or apply a tourniquet.   If you are able to identify the snake make sure you tell the vet so they can administer the correct anti-venom. DON'T ever try to kill the snake, but if it's already dead, bring it with you to the vets. Bees/Wasps   Honeybee Image credit Unlike spiders and snakes, bee and wasp stings are generally less harmful - although if your dog suffers from multiple stings or a bad allergic reaction then the results can be dangerous. Commonly, dogs will get stung on their face or nose which can be very painful for them - although it is possible for them to be stung elsewhere including on their tongue and inside their mouth. Signs and symptoms General weakness Difficulty breathing A large amount of swelling extending away from the sting site. Severe reactions can include vomiting and diarrhea. Severe reactions can cause pale gums. How to help Prevention is always best. Keep outdoor areas clean and free of rubbish or food scraps, particularly if you've been eating or entertaining outside, and keep flowers to a minimum. At this point there is one distinction between bees and wasps. Bees usually have a 'barbed' stinger which loges itself into the skin of your dog - the bee can therefore only sting once and dies soon after. Wasps have a clean stinger so are more capable of multiple stings which is worse for your dog. Keep some antihistamines on you at all times in a doggy first-aid kit which can come in handy to alleviate some symptoms of allergic reactions. Make sure to seek advice from your vet beforehand about brands and dosage. If possible, try to remove the stinger. Never squeeze or use tweezers to remove the stinger as that can allow more poison to enter your dog's body. Use a flicking motion with your nail or edge of a credit card. Wash the wound using a mild soap. Apply an ice pack to reduce the swelling for around 10-30 minutes a few times a day. Make a thick paste using baking soda and water to apply to the stung area. Observe your dog closely for the next 24 hours for any severe symptoms or reactions. If your dog has been stung multiple times, or believe they are having a bad allergic reaction, head to the vet immediately so they can be seen to. Jellyfish   Box Jellyfish Image credit Depending on where in the world you live and if you spend time with your dog at the beach, jellyfish could be a real hazard for your four legged friend (and you too). Jellyfish are translucent sea dwellers who quite often end up close to shore and if you end up in their path, could suffer a nasty sting and depending on the species, the consequences can be deadly. Signs and symptoms There are many different species of jellyfish and the impact of their sting varies, so with that, so does the signs and symptoms your dog may display and experience. The best thing you can do is research what jellyfish inhabit your local area and find out what distinct signs and symptoms they may cause. However, there are some common signs and symptoms you can look out for. These include: Itchy rash with burning sensation. Nausea Vomiting Fever Confusion Shock High blood pressure Heart and respiratory problems And depending on the type of jellyfish, death. How to help As always, prevention and protection is the best way to allow your furry friend to enjoy the water and avoid those nasty tentacles. The tentacle of a jellyfish is covered with what is called nematocysts or stinging cells which stick to surfaces and wrap around objects. These stinging cells secrete poisonous toxins. Fortunately your dog is at less risk than you are because they are covered by fur which makes it harder for the tentacles to stick - however you will need to protect your dog's footpads, abdomen, nose, testicles and eye lids to stop any nasty poison from penetrating. You can do this by spreading petroleum jelly onto those vulnerable areas before hitting the beach. However, if your dog has been stung the following tips should help ease symptoms: Soak or rinse the affected area for 15-30 minutes in vinegar. If you don't have vinegar, sea water or 70% alcohol will also work. This stops the tentacles releasing toxins. Use gloves, a shell, stick or tweezers to remove tentacles - but never with your bare hands. If possible, make a paste with baking soda or shaving cream and apply it to the area - this helps remove any stubborn tentacles. You can then use a razor or credit card to remove those stubborn tentacles, but then reapply more baking soda paste or shaving cream. If your dog has been stung in the eye use a saline solution to rinse the area. Similarly, soak a towel in vinegar and dap the area, but never put vinegar directly into the eye. If your dog has been stung inside the mouth irrigate the area using a medicine syringe and by making a vinegar solution using 1/4 cup vinegar to 3/4 of water. Keep you pet calm and as still as possible and take them to the vet ASAP. Never use fresh water. Never rub the area. Note: if your dog has been stung by a bluebottle/Portugese Man O War NEVER use vinegar - use hot water followed by ice.   Feature image credit  

If you haven’t had your female cat spayed or desexed and you find her acting a little strange, she may very well be pregnant. Cats can become pregnant at four months of age and are called 'queens'. Although most veterinarians recommend having cats desexed at 5-6 months, some will perform the procedure earlier. In order to avoid kittens ending up in already-overpopulated shelters and then ultimately euthanised, all pets, both male and female, should be desexed except if you are a licensed breeder. Unless you are absolutely sure that you have the capacity and resources to care for a litter of kittens and can find suitable and loving homes for each of them, you should talk to your vet about having your cat spayed while in the early stages of pregnancy. Spaying will remove your cat’s reproductive organs and any foetuses. Late term spaying is not common or advisable.  If you decide to allow the pregnancy to continue there are a number of things to be aware of. Although you can buy pregnancy testing kits, they are not always accurate. If you think your cat is pregnant, consult your vet who will perform an ultrasound to confirm. In later stages, an X-ray and determine the exact number of foetuses present.  Your vet may recommend changing your queen’s diet to ensure additional protein and calcium or supplements. It is essential that any vaccinations, worming, parasite and flea treatments are only carried out by a vet on a pregnant animal.  Signs of pregnancy The gestation period for cats ranges from 63 - 68 days. During the first few weeks, the only sign of pregnancy will be a small amount of weight gain. Foetal heartbeats are detectable by 20 days and your vet will be able to feel the presence of kittens around 17 - 25 days. However, you should not do this yourself as you may cause a miscarriage, injure the developing kittens or your cat.  Morning sickness can occur during the third or fourth week of pregnancy. Your cat may seem a little subdued, be eating less or vomiting. This should last for a few days only. If your cat does not eat or drink for more than two days when pregnant then consult your vet. The signs of pregnancy include:    Nipples become pink and enlarged Abdominal weight gain Cat is more affectionate and communicative than usual Starts nesting behaviour to create a warm and comfortable place for birthing Appetite increases A pregnant cat four days before delivery. Image credit Preparing for delivery The queen should be separated from any other animals in the house during the last few weeks of pregnancy and kept indoors. One week from delivery you should see the vet for a final check.  You can assist your cat with nesting by giving her a large box or basket lined with newspaper, towels and blanket. Place it in a quiet, warm spot and to make it easier for her, cut a section of the box or basket away that she can use as an entrance. Bring her food and water bowls near and have her litter tray accessible close-by. When it is time for labour, it is best that you monitor her but do not interfere unless she, or the kittens are in danger.    Signs of labour Nesting Decreased activity Decreased interest in food Milk discharge from the nipples Restlessness and pacing Calling and crying Persistent licking of abdomen and vaginal area Panting heavily and increased breathing rate Dilated cervix Mouth open Laying on their side or squatting The first kitten is usually delivered an hour after labour starts and then others will arrive from a few minutes to over an hour apart. Each kitten will arrive in a small sac filled with clear fluid. The mother will start licking the kitten to break this sac and allow the kitten to breathe. This licking will also encourage the kitten’s respiratory and circulatory systems. If she does not do this, you will need to puncture and tear the sac from around the kitten’s faces and gently rub the kitten with a towel.   The mother will also chew off the umbilical cord and eat the placenta. If needed, you can use dental floss or sterile string to tie off the cord yourself, leaving about an inch. Otherwise you should not handle the kittens for at least 4-7 days after birth.  It is important that you only get involved if absolutely necessary as all of these activities start the bonding process and allow the mother and kittens to familiarise their scents. Veterinary Intervention Contact your vet immediately if you notice any of the following -  Before labour Your cat stops eating for more than 24 hours Has a low or high temperature  Becomes weak or lethargic Has an unpleasant smelling vaginal discharge The pregnancy lasts more than 66 days During labour Contractions have lasted more than four hours with no births There's more than three hours between the kitten births A kitten becomes lodged and can’t be removed gently  Greenish discharge with a strong odour or excessive bright red bleeding  There is not a placenta for each kitten A mammary gland (breast) appears infected, is hot, hard or painful After labour Mother is weak or unwell Mother has a high temperature Kittens are weak, won’t nurse or are not getting enough milk Kittens mew continuously Kittens are not sleeping or are agitated Image credit   Feature image credit  

Litter trays are often an unfortunate necessity of modern cat ownership, with many cats now living their entire lives indoors. City dwellers and families with apartments in built up areas are most likely to keep their cats indoors and are also likely to be unhappy about the unpleasant sight of a litter tray clogging up their home.   Never fear! We at Petbucket have looked around and found some clever ways to disguise the presence of a tray in your house to keep your cat and you happy.   Kitty Cupboards   Image Credit   Renovated cupboards are a popular way to hide your cat’s bathroom. By cutting a cat sized hole in a door of a pre-existing cupboard in your house or installing a pet door, your cat can leave its business out of sight. The use of a cupboard also makes it easy to access for cleaing – all you have to do is open the door.   Image Credit    Image Credit   Curtains Image credit    The use of a small curtain can hide your cat litter trays beneath a side table in your bathroom or laundry. Either sew custom curtains at home or chop off some cheap options from a store like IKEA.   Privacy Screens Image Credit   Image Credit   Nowhere to hang curtains from? A free standing screen might be the answer. The Prive Litter Screen is a cheap and easy option to conceal litter from your view and that of your guests.   Modern Litter Boxes   A number of companies have realised the need for private and stylish litter boxes that don't resemble a little box at all. Image Credit    Image Credit   Modernist Cat’s Circa50 has made a dare we say it, chic litter box which would vanish into the furnishings of the most stylish of homes. Image Credit   Image Credit   Also by Modernist Cat is the Mox Litter Tower which your cat climbs into from the top. Not only does it look nothing like a conventional litter tray, it helps reduce tracking with the unique vented lid.  Image Credit    For something a bit different again, you can conceal the plain plastic litter tray you already have with this felt cover by Moliti.   Feature Image Credit