Pet Bucket Blog

Dogs love being with their humans and humans love being with their dogs. That means that dogs also ride in cars but there are some very important tips to make sure that your pooch remains safe when road tripping.   1. Restraint, restraint, RESTRAINT! You wouldn’t ever travel without wearing a seat belt, and would never let a child or infant travel unrestrained – it should be the same for your dog. In the case of an accident, your dog could be thrown completely out of the car, even in minor incidents. Unrestrained dogs can easily be injured even as a result of the smallest, slowest of accidents.   An unrestrained and excited dog can jump around, distract and interfere with the driver which is dangerous for everyone.   Another important reason for restraint is that after an accident, a scared dog can wander off and may be disorientated or injured or may obstruct or attack emergency personnel.   There are a number of restraining crates or carriers and harnesses you can choose that attach to seat belts. There are also nets and barriers, booster seats, hammocks and beds but these should only be used in combination with a harness.   Always, ALWAYS have your dog in a suitable restraint. In some places it’s actually the law and you can be fined for not complying.   2. Where to sit The safest place for your dog is in the back seat or the cabin.   3. Identification Your dog should have an identification tag with your address, family names and contact numbers in case of an emergency or if you become separated.    4. Open windows It may be the most joyous of activities for your pooch but letting them ride with their heads out of an open window is very dangerous. They can get debris in their eyes and ears, be injured by flying objects or hit by passing vehicles. Also, an unrestrained dog may jump out of an open window onto the road and into traffic. It’s also best to lock power-window controls so that your dog can’t accidentally open the window themselves.   5.  Be selective Make sure that any harness, crate or carrier you choose has been crash-tested and meets safety standards. Purchase only reputable and trusted brands and look for warranties and good after-sales service.   6. The right fit Just like child car seats and carriers, the right restraint is crucial to your dog’s safety. Ensure you have the correct crate or harness for your dog’s weight and size. The harness should fit your dog tightly enough to be effective but also be comfortable for them to wear.   Image credit  7. Food and water Have some water, a travel bowl and some dry food handy for your dog. This is necessary for long trips, but also advisable for shorter trips as you never know when you might get stuck in traffic. If the weather is warm your dog can get uncomfortable and thirsty very quickly. Food should only be given when the vehicle is stopped.   8. Stop regularly When on long trips, stop every 2-3 hours to let your dog relieve themselves, stretch and move about. Have ample waste bags handy for cleaning up poop.   9. At your destination Always put your dog’s leash on before you let them out of the vehicle.   10. Ramps Consider a ramp for older or less mobile dogs to get in and out of the car. There are many lightweight, folding or telescopic ramps that can be easily carried and stored   11. Absolute no-nos Never have your dog ride in the open bed of a pickup truck or ute even if tied. A sudden stop will throw them about and they will get injured. Don’t leave your dog alone in a car without having windows or sunroof open a few inches for ventilation. In hot weather, never leave your dog in a car, not even for a few minutes. They are far more sensitive to the heat than us and can develop heat exhaustion, suffer organ failure and die in a very short period of time. For more information check out the following Pet Bucket reviews on dog safety and car products: Seat belts Car beds Barriers   Feature image credit

Litter box problems can cause even the most dedicated cat owner to rethink their pet of choice. Cats are clean and fastidious by nature, so it can be perplexing when they suddenly start urinating and defecating outside of the litter box. There are some obvious things to look out for – like making sure the litter boxes are scooped and cleaned on a regular basis – but there are also some subtler things that could be causing the problem. One of the most important things to do is to rule out any health problems. There are a number of issues that can cause a cat to stop using the litter box, and some of them can be quite serious. Male cats in particular are prone to urinary tract infections that make urination difficult and painful. Male cats can also suffer from blockages – and these blockages can be life-threatening. The first thing cat owners should do is schedule a comprehensive exam for their pets. A veterinary exam may reveal some underlying health issues that are causing the cat to not use the litter box. If that is the case, the cat should resume is previous litter box habits as soon as the underlying health issue is resolved. The location of the litter box can present problems and cause the cat to stop using it. Many cats are reluctant to use the litter box if it is in a high traffic area of the home. Others may be disturbed by scents and odors in the area. Keep in mind that cats have a far better sense of smell than humans do and can detect subtle odors their human caretakers may not notice. Sometimes moving the litter box to a quieter part of the house is all it takes to resolve problems with inappropriate elimination. Try setting up the litter box in a quiet part of the home – away from the hustle and bustle of daily life. Be sure to show your cat the new location and give them time to get comfortable with the new surroundings. Some cats will object to a certain type of litter, or to a change in the formulation of the litter. If you have recently changed brands of cat litter, try going back to the old brand for a few weeks to see if that resolves the problem. If you have been using the same brand of litter all along, look for any subtle changes in texture and color that could be putting your cat off. Litter manufacturers often tweak their formulations to make them more cost effective – those changes could be making the litter less attractive to your cat. If the type of litter is the culprit, it can take some time and experimentation to find a better fit. Litter box problems can be difficult to deal with, but it is important to be persistent. Since a number of things can cause cats to suddenly stop using the litter box, the best solution is to work through each of those possibilities one by one. Once you find the source of the problem, you can restore the peace in your home and start enjoying your cat again.

We all love a Labrador and are incredibly fond of a Jack Russel, but what about the unpopular breeds of dogs in the world. Through no fault of their own, the following breeds are not commonplace among pet owners - some even on the verge of extinction. 1. Chinook   Image credit   The Chinook is an American breed of sled dog. Bred from a mixture of Husky and Mastiff, it is the official dog of New Hampshire. Even so, it's a rare dog, these days mainly kept as a family pet. They are very obedient and affectionate - particularly so with children. 2. Skye Terrier   Image credit   The Skye Terrier hails from Scotland and is actually an endangered breed. The Skye is a hardy little dog with a long and silky coat that requires regular grooming. Traditionally a hunting dog, these days the Skye enjoys life as a house dog - as long as it gets a moderate amount of exercise to stay in shape. 3. Komondor The Komondor is a native of Hungary, known for its long and very distinctive corded coat. Even though it's considered a Hungarian national treasure, this powerful guardian dog is still not very popular. It's a calm and gentle dog, so is a great option for families. It's also fiercely protective and makes a great guard dog - although perhaps not suited to city living. 4. Glen of Imaal Terrier   Image credit   This cutie comes from County Wicklow in Ireland and is considered a dwarf breed. Around since the reign of Elizabeth I, these little dogs are sturdy and very muscular with an expected lifetime of 15 years. They are energetic and less vocal than other terriers, but can be quite stubborn - especially when it comes to training. 5. English and American Foxhound   English Foxhound Image credit The English Foxhound is a scent hound, originally bred to, you guessed it, hunt foxes. They are a very gentle breed that gets on well with pretty much everyone: adults, children and other animals. They might be gentle, but they are incredibly active so wouldn't pair well with a lazy bones owner! American Foxhound Similarly, the American Foxhound is a sweet and social dog, that can be quite shy around strangers. They have lots of energy so would do well in a home with a big yard to run around in and it would be essential to take them to obedience classes to curb their natural instinct to follow scents. 6. Sussex Spaniel   Image credit From Southern England, the Sussex Spaniel is a calm but clownish breed of dog. They are a great family dog that get on well with children which also makes them a wonderful therapy dog. They are really great at retrieving, but can be quite stubborn to train. 7. Harrier   Image credit   The Harrier is a medium sized hound, often confused with a Beagle and are even sometimes referred to as a 'Beagle on steroids.' This short haired dog comes in a variety of colours and has a very sweet and cheerful temperment. They are incredibly active and are fond of exploring, so best to keep them on a lead when out and about. 8. Thai Ridgeback   Image credit   The Thai Ridgeback is an ancient breed of dog that's only starting to get recognition outside of Thailand. Characterised by it's 'ridge' of hair running along its back, it's a very intelligent breed that enjoys relaxing but is prone to sudden bursts of energy. They are a loyal and loving family pet but can be agressive and/or shy when not socialised properly.  9. Norweigian Lundehund   Image credit   A small, Spitz breed of dog, the Norweigian Lundehund can move it's joints just like a human can and actually has six toes! They are a breed that dates back to 1600 when it was originally bred to hunt puffins. They are a playful and loving breed that is perfectly happy to snuggle up for hours. They are very intelligent and can be trained to take part in agility competitions. 10. Canaan Dog   Image credit   The Canaan Dog originates from modern Israel, Palestine, Lebanon and Jordan and is one of the world's oldest breeds of dogs. They have quite a primitive appearance with a harsh, short coat. They are very intelligent and make excellent guard dogs but can become easily bored and not listen to commands if things get too repetitive. 11. Otterhound   Image credit   These shaggy looking pooches come from Britain, although their exact origins are unknown. They are hunting dogs and are very hard workers. They are unique in the way they have a rough, oily double coat and webbed feet. They are very inquisitive so require lots of supervision when outdoors. They are a great family dog, but need high fences - they can jump up to five feet! Despite all this, they are endangered - with only 1000 left in the world. 12. Cesky Terrier   Image credit   From Czechoslovakia, the Cesky Terrier was orginally bred to go hunting in the forests of Bohemia. They are a muscular, hardy little dog with a silky coat. Compared to other terriers they are quiet and make a lovely family pet. 13. Lowchen   Image credit   The Lowchen or Little Lion Dog originates from Germany. It was once the rarest dog in the world. The Lowchen is a friendly, healthy and happy dog and is very intelligent. A quiet breed, they make a great companion, but don't leave them alone for long periods of time. 14. Dandie Dinmont Terrier   Image credit This cute littler terrier with an equally cute name is of Scottish origin. It has short legs and a long body and makes both a great companion and guard dog. They are very docile compared to other terriers but beware, they are quick at digging holes! 15. Stabyhoun   Image credit The Stabyhoun is a Dutch dog. It has a long and sleek coat and had a very lovely temperment. Friendly, intelligent and patient - they are wonderful around children and other pets. They can however be quite stubborn and do require a lot of exercise. 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Unless you have an outdoor cat that requires their claws for self-defense, it is best to keep your cat’s claws trimmed every two to three weeks. This will prevent injuries caused by claws caught in carpets, clothes and other fabrics. It will also keep your cat’s claws in good condition and alert you to any issues such as ingrown claws. Many cat owners find trimming their pet’s claws a slightly nerve-racking task, but with a bit of time and patience, it will become a regular ritual that your feline friend will not necessarily enjoy, but start to accept. Follow these five simple tips, and you’ll be well on your way to claw trimming success! 1. Get your cat used to the nail trimming position The best time to trim a cat’s claws is when they’re asleep or relaxed. Start training your cat from an early age to accept having their paws and claws handled and manipulated. A good time to do this is when you are cuddling and bonding. If you're going to be trimming the cat's nails by yourself, get your cat used to sitting on its rear on your lap, facing away from you. This will enable you to hold them steady, with a paw in one hand and the clippers in the other. 2. Become familiar with your cat’s claws To access each claw, gently press each paw between your thumb and forefinger and the claw will pop outward from the toe. At the base of each nail is a pink strip called the quick where blood vessels and nerve endings lie. You want to avoid cutting too close to the quick otherwise you will cause bleeding and pain. 3. Use specially designed cat claw clippers Cat claw clippers come in two styles – either guillotine or scissor style. I personally prefer the small scissor-type of cat claw clippers as I find them the quickest and easiest to use. Most have a non-slip, rubber handle that makes it easier to hold the clipper, reducing the risk of splintering the claw and hurting your cat.     4. Trim just the tip of each claw Cut just the tip of each claw, and as you get more comfortable, you can cut closer to the quick. Slowly snip just the tips off in a straight line approximately 2 mm away from the quick. Don’t yell at your cat if they won’t let you trim all their claws. At first you may only be able to trim one or two claws at a time. Be patient and keep trying!   5. Reward your cat for good behaviour If your cat is well behaved and lets you cut all their nails, reward them with a treat that you only give them after claw trimming. That way they will come to realise that cooperating will result in a special reward.

Administering pills to your cat may be easy for some, but for many it’s a daily struggle. Thankfully, there are several methods that can make the process less stressful both for you and your cat. 1. Special treats   image credit The best way to give your cat a pill is by using treats that are made specifically for this purpose. The treats are soft, sticky, and tasty so that your cat will have no idea they are taking medicine!   2. DIY Pill Pockets   image credit   Instead of purchasing treats, you could also try making your own. PetMd recommends forming “meatballs” out of your cat’s canned food. Make one with their pill, and a couple others without. 3. Crushing the pill image credit If your cat still refuses to take the pill, you could try crushing it into a very fine powder, and then mixing it with their wet food. Make sure you check with your vet first; some pills are not intended to be crushed.   These three methods work fine as long as your cat is allowed to have food with their medicine. In the case that they're not, your best bet is to restrain your cat and give them the pill directly.   4. The direct way   image credit Place one thumb and forefinger on either side of the cat’s face and apply gentle pressure at the space between the teeth. Once their mouth starts to open, press down on the lower jaw and deposit the pill as far back as possible. Close the mouth and massage their throat until they swallow. To make sure the pill doesn’t remain in the esophagus, give your cat a teaspoon of water from a syringe or eyedropper.   image credit   If your cat will not stay still or if you’re afraid of them scratching you, it’s probably best for you to wrap or swaddle your cat in a towel and then proceed with the previous steps.   No matter what method you use, make sure to give your cat lots of praise afterward!   feature image credit

Tiny dogs are becoming increasingly popular particularly among urban city dwellers, people who live in apartments or those who don't have much space. Small dogs are compact, cuddly, transportable, fond of affection and generally more affordable than their larger counterparts. They can also be easier to look after because they eat less, produce less waste, shed less, live longer and don't need as much exercise. They are however known for having huge personalities to counter-balance their teeny tiny bodies which can of course have it's own behavioural upsets! A small dog is characterised by being sixteen inches tall or less and weigh 22 pounds or less. Tiny dog breeds include: the Maltese, Pug, Pomeranian, Chihuahua and Dachschund as well as many of the designer breeds that are now popular. Caring for a tiny dog comes with it's own set of special needs that are important to follow in order to maximise it's health, wellbeing and happiness as well as yours.   Image credit 1. Make a safe place Tiny dogs can be very sensitive, whether they easily become scared or over-excited. Having a safe place for your little one is a great idea as it's somewhere they can escape to whenever they need to. This can be a crate or cage, bed or gated area that's away from high traffic areas. This safe place means that your little pooch is off limits so make sure this rule is communicated to family, friends and visitors. Keep your dog's toys in this area along with water and a heating pad covered with a soft fabric as small dogs get chilled easily. Another great idea is to have potty pads near by this location because small dog breeds tend to need the bathroom often! 2. Diet and food Tiny dogs have tiny stomachs and tiny appetites and are prone to digestive issues like bloating and vomiting which can be encouraged by eating large portions of food all a once. It's preferable to feed your small dog two or three meals a day using high quality, antioxidant rich (to promote longevity) protein (meat or fish) based food with no fillers like ash or corn. If you have a fussy eater on your hands you can moisten dry food with warm water or add a little canned food to liven up meal time and their appetite. Small dogs are also susceptible to hypoglycaemia so frequent meals helps to regulate their blood sugar. If you are time-poor consider purchasing an automatic feeder which can dispense several small meals a day. Beware to watch portion sizes because little dogs are prone to obesity! 3. Dental care Tiny dogs are prone to dental problems like tooth decay and gum disease so you should invest in dental pads or toothbrushes specifically for small breeds. Dental treats also help keep teeth clean and freshen breath. You should clean your dog's teeth once a week to keep any dental problems from occurring.   Image credit 4. Training Small dogs are intelligent and because of this, they can become easily bored or frustrated. Training is very important to help curb any naughty behaviour from developing such as ignoring basic commands like sit or stay. Get your little dog involved in group obedience classes which helps with socialisation, soothes boredom and importantly teaches them manners! 5. Exercise They might be small, but your tiny dog needs daily exercise. Of course you won't need to walk miles like you would if you owned a larger dog so a brisk walk around the block, or an energetic ball game should be suffice. The amount of exercise will be dependent on the breed so sometimes it might take a few extra minutes of activity to wear your pooch out. 6. Offer protection Your little dog might have oodles of confidence to take on that big Labrador down at the park but the reality is their bodies are too small and even a nudge from a bigger dog could cause injury. To prevent these sort of mishaps, when out with your dog keep them or a short lead and pick them up if it looks like trouble may be brewing. Image credit 7. Extracurricular activities As mentioned, small dogs are prone to boredom, largely due to their high intelligence. One way to combat this is through extra training and agility courses. It's another excellent way to socialise your dog and who knows you may have a little award-winning champion on your hands? Keep an eye out for events like fly ball, agility trails and obedience competitions. 8. Toys Because small dogs have more energy than larger breeds, you'll need to incorporate plenty of play time and toys into your pooch's daily routine. It helps prevent boredom and stave of bad behaviour - plus it keeps them happy! Remember to replace any broken or torn toys to prevent any nasty accidents. 9. Keep them warm   Seeing a tiny dog in an even tinier coat or jacket is incredibly cute - but it serves an important purpose. Small dogs feel the cold easily because they have no winter undercoat so can quickly develop hypothermia. So when it's cold out, make sure you dress your little dog appropriately. Sweaters and coats that are snug fitting and made from soft, natural fibres are best. Also remember to clean of any snow or ice from your pup's feet to stop painful ice balls developing between toes.   Image credit 10. Grooming They might be little and spend a lot of time indoors, but that doesn't mean your tiny dog doesn't need to be groomed. In fact, small dogs should be groomed from nose to tail weekly. Use a soft brush and look out for mats of hair in long-haired breeds. Remember to also use a small set of nail clippers to clip of small bits of nail, always avoiding the quick. 11. Be affectionate This should be easy to follow because your tiny dog is so adorably sweet! However not only is it important to handle your dog throughout the day to develop a close bond but it prevents them from become nippers. Remember to always be gentle, touching ears and feet to help get them used to being handled.   12. Promote longevity   As mentioned, small dog breeds live for a long time so it's important to look after them properly so they can have a long, happy and healthy life. As stated, an antioxidant rich diet is important to keep their insides healthy. As your small dog ages you will need to start buying joint care products, heated beds and aspirin to help bring comfort if they should develop arthritis. If you notice your dog begin to loose their teeth, gradually switch over to a high-quality canned food specifically targeted for mature dogs. Feature image credit

The Raw Truth   What other felines, besides domesticated cats, consume their prey cooked? Most likely, you're drawing a blank because the answer is none! Cats by nature are carnivores - more specifically they are obligate carnivores, meaning in order for cats to thrive they require nutrition from the meat, organs, and bones of animals. In other words, cats are meant to consume and digest the entire carcass of their prey.   As you can imagine, most domesticated cats are not being served an entire rabbit for dinner. Instead, they are eating over-processed kibble and canned food that contain an unnecessary amount of carbohydrates and additives. This, along with the frequent pet food recalls, has inspired many cat owners to feed their pet an all natural diet, aka, a raw one.   Tips   There are two ways to go about feeding your cat a raw diet. You can either purchase pre-made raw food or you can make it yourself. There are multiple brands including Bravo or Feline's Pride that have already done the dirty work for you. However, if you prefer to make it yourself, here are some tips:   1. Start off slow and be patient. It's easy to get overwhelmed quickly by the amount of work that goes into prepping your cat's raw food. The best way to start is to buy some chicken thighs and cut them up into small pieces. A younger cat may go for it right away, whereas an older cat used to the taste of canned food may take some time to transition. Eventually they will get used to the taste of raw meat, and their carnivorous instincts will kick in.   2. Buy a grinder and supplements. After a week or two of testing the waters, a grinder is the next step in getting serious about a raw diet. Supplements such as Vitamins A, D, E, B-Complex, and Fish Oil are added to make up for the fact that the cat isn't actually eating the entire carcus, so they aren't able to get all the same nutrients as they would from prey in the wild. To make it easier, there are companies that sell these vitamins already mixed for this purpose.   3. There are multiple recipes for success. There are several recommended raw recipes to choose from but they all have the same essential ingredients of meat (both muscle and organ), bones, and supplements. Here's one in particular that is well illustrated.   4. Food should be fresh and warm. Most cats cannot tolerate cold food so make sure to defrost their meal in time. It's recommended that you defrost or warm the meaty bones by placing them in a ziploc bag, and then in warm water for 10 minutes. The water should never be hot enough that it will cook the meat, nor should you ever use your microwave as a method of defrosting.   Benefits   There are several benefits to raw feeding your cat, and many of them will become apparent soon after you make the switch. Cats on raw diets have a healthy skin and coat, clean teeth, and increased energy. The volume and odor of their feces changes (for the better), and allergies tend to clear up. It's also a great way to control your cat's weight, which should be monitored closely when making the switch to a raw diet.   Risks   If you're considering raw feeding your cat, it's important to know that not all veterinarians recommend it. Their main concern is the chance of animal to human disease transmission, contagions, and other food safety issues during the meal prep.   The ultimate goal of raw feeding is to give your cat the food nature intended him to eat. Deciding to raw feed your cat is both a big decision and responsibility. Do as much research as possible to make sure it's right for you and your cat. As long as you can be responsible and follow food safety guidelines, raw feeding could help your cat be the best cat he can be.    

Many cats appear to be pretty cool customers, but that doesn't mean they are exempt from stress and anxiety. If stress becomes a major player in your cats' life, behaviour problems, particularly over-grooming, can become a real issue. What is it? Over-grooming, also known as psychogenic alopecia, is a coping mechanism for cats dealing with stressful situations. Some cats go bald or create sores on their body as a result of excessive licking and chewing. While self-grooming is perfectly normal behaviour for a cat - over-grooming is when the behaviour becomes a compulsion and disrupts a cats normal routine. Over-grooming is a common way for cats to cope with stress because the act of grooming releases endorphins so it's no wonder it's a behaviour they turn to when they feel anxious or stressed. Generally, as soon as a cat correlates grooming with a way to ease upset feelings the behaviour may increase and become compulsive. Causes Like humans, cats deal with stress in different ways and what one cat might become stressed over might not even conjure up a reaction in another. It's important to note that it might not always be obvious what is causing your cat stress or there could be more than one issue that's upsetting your cat. Common causes of stress include:     •    A death     •    A divorce     •    Owner working longer hours     •    A family member leaving the house. (e.g. to go to college or traveling)     •    Changes to routine     •    New family members     •    Moving house     •    Rearranging furniture     •    Presence of other cats How to identify Unfortunately, over grooming is a secretive activity, so many owners report that they find it hard to catch their kitty in the act. This may be because the cat doesn't feel the need to indulge in their secret vice because their owner's presence already gives them positive feelings. Or it may be because the owner has caught kitty out previously so the cat now knows not to do it around them. Fortunately, there are some signs that can help identify over-grooming.     •    Hair missing in places such as middle of the back, belly and inner thighs     •    Hair is very short and stubbled, in patches or broken     •    In extreme cases cat may lick, chew, pluck or bite areas and if you do catch them it's difficult to interrupt.     •    Grooming takes place out of context and disrupts usual activity   There are certain breeds that are more susceptible to over grooming. These include: the Siamese, Burmese, Himalayan and Abyssinian. How to help In the first instance, cat owners will need to distinguish whether their cat is over-grooming because of stress or is suffering from genuine alopecia. You'll know it's alopecia because the remaining hair feels soft and normal to touch, where as with over-grooming, hair is broken and spiky. There are also other diseases and illnesses that can cause over-grooming so it's also important to rule those out too. These include:     •    Lower urinary tract disease     •    Feline hyperaesthesia syndrome     •    Flea bites     •    Inhalled allergies     •    Ringworm The best thing to do to help is to consult your vet who will be able to make a formal diagnosis. If your cat is indeed over-grooming because of stress, the best thing to do is identify what is causing the stress and then eliminate it. Sometimes that's not always possible so there are other methods you can try to help stop this compulsive behaviour.     •    Leave small reminders from missed people such as a voice recording or an unwashed item of clothing to help give cats a little pick-me-up     •    If stress is caused by another cat, remember to introduce them slowly to keep stress levels down.     •    Play therapy can help increase a pet's self confidence - interactive games work best.     •    Plug in pheromone diffusers can help relieve stress. A trip to the vet will be most definately required though as anti-anxiety drugs or herbal remedies can be prescribed. Feature image credit

Dogs are the most loving, fun, loyal and best to cuddle of all pets. By applying mathematical theory, it follows that the bigger the dog the more loving, fun, loyal and amazing the cuddles. Am I right? Before we get too excited about the cuddles, there’s a lot to think about before choosing a large dog breed as your pet.  Choosing a breed Generally, a large breed dog is one that weighs 55lbs/25kg or over as an adult. Breeds include Dalmatians, Rottweilers, Mastiffs, Greyhounds, Boxers, Golden Retrievers and German Shepherds. A giant or extra large breed will be 100lbs/45kg or over and breeds include St Bernards, Great Danes, Irish Wolfhounds, Black Russian Terriers and Newfoundlands. The right dog for you will depend on the breed's temperament, activity and exercise needs, grooming requirements and your lifestyle. Although many large dog breeds are social, calm and placid making them great for families, they may not be suited to families with very young children. Because of their size, a large dog will easily knock down or unintentionally hurt a small child when playing.  Size does matter Large dogs have obvious and less obvious practical implications as pets. You need to have the room and space for an adult dog in your home, yard and car. Clearly everything for your dog will need to be large or bigger from food and water bowls through to kennels, beds, leashes or harnesses, toys and coats. These will be more expensive than the equivalent items for smaller dogs. Some apartments or houses won't rent to people with large dogs and some boarding kennels, hotels, camping and caravan parks will not allow large dogs.  Large dogs will be able to easily access food, valuables, breakables or things dangerous to them such as cleaning products and medicines if left in the home on tables, shelves and benches around the home. Due to their weight and size, they are more likely to bump into, and potentially damage, furniture and household items.  Ask yourself the following before considering large dog breeds: If you have a yard, are your fences high enough and strong enough? Will you be able to groom and bath your dog inside or will it need to be done in the yard? Will you need to pay to have your dog bathed and groomed? Are you able to properly care for a large dog and their needs? Do you have the strength to lift, assist and manoeuvre a dog of that size. Will you have the strength required for their life expectancy? Image credit Health Large dogs have higher health care costs as often anaesthetics and drugs are charged by the volume administered and that depends on the dog’s weight. Large dogs will also require the biggest dose or multiple doses of flea, worm and tick preventative treatments. There are some health problems common to large and giant dogs. Breeds with deep chests are more prone to bloat and gastric torsion. Hip and elbow dysplasia caused by stress placed on joints is common, as is arthritis. Large breed puppies are at greater risk of developmental bone and joint disease during their early growth stages.  Food Feeding a large dog is going to be more expensive because they will eat much more. However, its also advisable to provide them with specialty diets to assist with metabolism, weight management and joint health.   Exercise Exercise requirements will depend on the breed. As adults, some large breeds need less exercise than a small breed like a terrier. All dogs will need some daily exercise but the breed will determine whether a walk will suffice. A working breed like a German Shepherd will require more activity. Since large breeds are susceptible to joint problems, regular exercise is vital to keep them at a healthy weight and for muscle and joint strengthening and mobility.  Training All dogs need to be trained and socialised but an excitable or disobedient large dog will be more difficult to manage. Their size and louder barks can be intimidating to other dogs and people. You want your dog to remain calm and under control so it’s important to start training early. Image credit

Giving cats eye drops is most people’s idea of a nightmare. Our feline friends aren’t generally keen on being restrained, having their eyes prodded and something wet put close. What normally ensures is a squirming, clawing wrestling session, with kitty running away and hiding and the tube of ointment sprayed everywhere, with not a drop in your pet’s eyes.    Image credit  All is not lost! We at Petbucket have some great suggestions to help you treat your cat’s eyes, beginning with:   1. Position Your Cat Correctly   The first step to successfully getting eye drops in your cat’s eye is to hold them so they can’t scamper away when they see the ointment coming – or dig their claws into your flesh!   It is best to put the cat on a table (or your lap if you trust them to keep their claws sheathed), wrapping your arm around their body to keep them still.   Image credit Swaddling him or her in a towel is a good way also of keeping them secure and preventing scratching while you move the dreaded dropper closer.   Make sure the space behind your cat is blocked so they cannot back out and flee that way.   If you can get someone else to help you hold your cat, especially at first, this can also make the process easier.     2. Correct Eye Drop Technique   Image source  With one hand, hold your cat’s head from under the jaw and use your thumb to push up towards the eye. This will create a little pouch in the lower eyelid, which can be seen above. Being careful not to touch your cat’s eye, place the tip of the applicator just above the bottom lid. Then squeeze the dropper quickly and gently (so it doesn’t squirt too much ointment). Your cat will blink, distributing the drop over the eye.   Once you are finished do not let go of your cat immediately. If you do it is likely they will immediately paw at their eyes, disturbing the liquid you just dropped in, meaning you have to begin again.   3. Use Rewards   Image credit Your cat is not going to love getting eye drops, but you can make it less than awful by praising your cat throughout the experience and giving them a treat at the end. If they associate the dropper with some positives that balance the negatives, they may not be so unwilling when they see you coming to give them their medication.   4. Have Patience   In the case of eye drops, don’t expect your first few tries to go smoothly. It can be a nerve wracking experience for your cat and difficult for owners to hold a cat and manipulate the dropper at once. But it is important for you to persist as if eye drops have been prescribed, they are important for your cat’s health.    Feature Image credit