We have a lot of love for our pets, and it goes without saying that the feeling is almost always returned. The bond between human and animal is something that goes back thousands of years and has helped both species survive in precarious situations. Some people do not give enough credit to dogs and cats when it comes to the amount of emotion they are able to detect or able to express, but recent science has shown us that animals can in fact demonstrate emotional capacity in the form of jealousy. If your pet has recently changed its attitude and is exhibiting jealous behaviour, then you probably are curious as to why. Let's discover what causes this and when it can be expected. Presence of New Pets This perhaps is the most commonly observed initiator of jealousy in our pets. Whenever a new pet is introduced to the household, it is common for that pet to receive a temporary amount of increased attention that the existing dog or cat is not receiving. This can create a dynamic in which your older pet feels neglected or inferior to the new addition, and can lead to bad behaviour and spells of anger. Some pets may act out by using the restroom in inappropriate places, while others may begin to chew on items and create messes. This is believed to be the pet's way to gain your attention, but can often result in frustration. It is perfectly common for pets to be jealous of other pets, but a balanced amount of attention can help reduce any issues. New Relationships If you have recently began dating a new person, then your pets may show a tendency to be jealous when this new person is around. While there are different schools of thought on the matter, many people believe that animals - particularly dogs - view their masters as property that must be guarded. Whenever a new person comes into the picture, it can throw off a dynamic and make the pet feel inadequate or lonely. These feelings can then manifest in bad behaviour, including growls and barks, clawing and inappropriate restroom behaviour. It can be hard to incorporate everyone in a new relationship, but your pet will do its best to gain your attention whenever one arises. New Children If you have just had a baby, then you will probably notice a change in behaviour from your pets. These pets may be used to being the centre of attention; a change in this dynamic can suddenly leave them feeling neglected and upset. Especially the case when a baby is brought home, some of the pet's prior behaviour may no longer be appropriate; when you punish or chastise a pet for doing so, it can create confusion and that can cause increased bad behaviour in an animal. Any situation in which there is a change in your home life or less attention given to a pet can result in jealousy manifesting in dogs and cats. The best way to take care of this is to provide the pet with special time each day, regardless of the difficulty. Without doing so, these fits of jealousy may take longer to subside and can be a negative, recurring event in your daily life. Feature image credit  

Cats are excellent pets. Dogs are loads of fun. Goldfish are certainly quiet. Apparently iguanas are loving. Still haven’t found your dream pet? Then what about miniature goats? If you’ve got the outdoor space then why not go for goats! Miniature, pygmy or dwarf goats are exactly that. The same in every way as their larger cousins only, well, much smaller. Miniature breeds are predominantly kept as pets and are immeasurably cute, clever, fun and friendly. They are also quite easy to care for, hardy and adaptable.  Miniature goats generally live for 8 -15 years, some even up to 20 years so it's a commitment not to be bleated at. They make fantastic companion animals, are great pets for children and tend to get along well with most other non-aggressive animals. They can even be taught to go on a leash, just like a dog.  The males will grow larger than females and weigh 27 to 39 kg (60 to 86 lb) and females weigh 24 to 34 kg (53 to 75 lb). They will stand 40-65cm (16-26in).   1. Regulations First you’ll have to check with your council and animal regulator whether you are permitted goats where you live. It may be a condition that any goats need to be tagged or chipped for identification. 2. Herd animals Goats are herd animals and will not like being alone. Having at least two goats will be less trouble and less demanding for you as they will have a companion to live and play with. Goats have also been known to play and live happily with other gentle animals such as dogs, cows, chickens and horses. Male goats will be more outgoing than females, but tend to generate a fairly strong smell if not desexed 3. Hey kid To ensure that socialisation occurs, it is best to bring goats into your family when they still require bottle feeding. You and your children will love feeding and patting the kid goats, and who will in turn form close, trusting bonds with your family. The goats will also become more manageable as they are not unfamiliar with handling and people. Don’t leave any young children unsupervised with goats.   Image credit 4. Housing Although some people enjoy having their pet goats inside their home, they can be quite messy and are naturally outdoor animals. Ideally, you should only have them inside for short periods. Goats are tough little creatures but do require some basics for a safe and healthy life. You will need an appropriately sized and properly fenced enclosure that will also protect them from predators. And they will need shelter from rain, wind and sun. Goats are amazing climbers, jumpers and can squeeze through holes that even Houdini would walk away from. Have the correct fencing, wire mesh is best, and make sure it is at least 120cm/48” high.  Kid goats can be housed in large dog kennels initially but will need rehousing into a larger shelter as they grow. Horse stables, barns and barn stalls, and draft-free wooden structures all make great shelters, or you can purchase special livestock housing.  5. Food and water Goats have a reputation for eating anything. Whilst that’s mostly true, goats will not eat any spoiled food or drink water that is not fresh. If let loose, they will eat most plants and grasses so be careful that there's none in your garden that are poisonous.  Their enclosure should have plenty of grass, clover and alfalfa for them to graze on, or fresh hay daily if grasses are unavailable. Grain, oats, corn and protein pellets should also be given. Any hay and grain must be in a trough and not on the ground. Small amounts of fruit and vegetables are also suitable and they will also need a salt and mineral lick.  It is important to provide goats with clean, fresh water at all times. As with their food, the water should also be raised off the ground to avoid it being spoiled or muddied.  5. Exercise and play Though small in size, miniature goats are certainly not small in energy or playfulness. They should not be tethered, caged or confined in a small space for long. Their enclosure must be large enough that they have adequate room to live in and are able to jump and run round. A pair of goats ideally need one acre of space.  Goats love to play and climb so give them objects that they can use such as large rocks, tree stumps, benches, tables, platforms, concrete blocks or a child’s tree house or activity centre. Some will also enjoy kicking around and playing with large balls.  You should never allow your child to encourage rough play with goats. Goats are naturally gentle but have strong heads for butting and very strong legs.  Goats can be leash-trained and you and your goats will look great out for your daily stroll! 6. Health and Grooming Goats are prone to parasites and need regular worming and tick prevention. They should also be vaccinated annually for Tetanus and Enterotoxemi. Have the vet do a throrough teeth and mouth check at the same time.  Goats can be de-horned or de-budded at a young age. You may need to trim their hooves every two - three months. If they are getting enough time and space to play, climb and run, their hooves will wear down from these activities.  Every office should include a miniature goat to assist open (i.e. crush) mail, do some filing and keep staff morale high.  Image credit   Feature image credit    

Ticks are more than just a nuisance for dogs and cats. These troublesome parasites are powerful disease vectors as well, and they pose a danger to pets and pet parents alike. As you prepare for summertime fun with your pets, you need to take steps to prevent tick bites and their associated dangers.   It is important to start looking for ticks as soon as the weather turns warmer. Ticks are generally less of a problem during the winter months - especially in colder climates, but they are quite resilient and will reappear quickly as soon as springtime arrives. By the time summer is in full swing, you can expect to find ticks not only in wooded areas but anywhere there is sufficient cover, including your lawn.   Watch the local wildlife Keeping your home and yard free of nuisance wildlife is one of the best ways to reduce ticks around your property. Possums, raccoons, skunks, rabbits, coyotes and other wildlife often harbor ticks, and the parasites can easily fall off and end up in your yard. From there it is only a quick jump to your cat or dog.   If you have outdoor cats on your property, it is a good idea to treat them with a quality flea and tick product. Topical treatments like Frontline and are very effective at keeping ticks from biting your pets. Applying the same treatment to outdoor and feral cats provides extra protection for your family members and your pets.   Check your pets (and yourself) often Consistent and timely application of a flea and tick protection product is important, but it does not mean that pet parents do not need to be vigilant. Checking your cat or dog for ticks on a regular basis is an essential part of pet ownership.   You should check your pet for ticks every time you come in from the outdoors, even if you were just taking a quick stroll around the yard or a walk down the street. Ticks are sneaky, and they can attach themselves to your pet in a matter of minutes.   Be sure to check everywhere for ticks, including along the inside of the legs, on the ears and around the base of the tail. Those are prime places for ticks to attach themselves and do their damage.   If you do find a tick, you should remove it promptly using gentle pressure with a pair of tweezers. Place the tick in a secure container and take it to the vet for analysis if at all possible. Your veterinarian can test the tick to see if it is carrying Lyme disease. If the tick tests positive, your vet can recommend a course of treatment for your cat or dog.   Do not forget to check yourself for ticks when you are done with your dog or cat. Ticks do not discriminate among species, and they are just as likely to latch on to you as your pet. If you find a tick, carefully remove it and take it to your doctor for testing.   Keeping your pet tick free this summer will not be easy, but a combination of the right preventative treatment and vigilance will help a lot. Nothing can completely stop ticks, but pet parents can help the animals they love avoid long-term problems. Want to protect your forever friend from nasty ticks? Our online store stocks heavily discounted (up to 75% off) tick products, including Frontline.  Feature image credit

  The warm summer weather means spending more time outside walking, running and playing with your canine companion. While it's fun to take advantage of the summer sun while it lasts, it's important that you understand the hazards that summer heat presents to your dog, too. High temperatures can cause heat stroke, dehydration and burns, and UV rays can lead to sunburn and sometimes skin cancer. Practice these pet safety tips to minimize the risk of these consequences when exercising with your dog. 1. Time Your Exercise Sessions Properly The sun's rays are the most intense, and the temperatures are highest, between 12:00 and 2:00 pm. Avoid exercising your pet between these hours if at all possible. The best times to exercise outdoors in the summer are before 10:00 am and after 4:00 pm. Not only is the temperature cooler in the morning and evening, but the UV rays are less direct, leading to a smaller risk of sunburn for both you and your pet. 2. Keep Those Paws Safe Hot asphalt or concrete can burn your dog's paws. Avoid exercising your dog on these surfaces on hot days, and opt instead for a grass park or dirt trails. Just be careful walking your dog to and from the car if you drive to a park - even a few steps on hot asphalt can be hazardous. If you live in the city where concrete or asphalt are the only options, purchase a pair of doggie booties. These are little shoes that slip over your dog's paws and protect them from the heat. 3. Offer Plenty of Water Whether you exercise your dog near home or in a dog park, make sure you offer them plenty of water before, during and after exercise to prevent dehydration. An easy way to carry water with you is in a regular water bottle. Most dogs easily adapt to drinking out of a bottle when water is poured into the side of their mouths. If your dog does not adapt to drinking in this manner, you can carry along a small bowl and pour the water into it for them. While you walk, pay attention to the locations of public bathrooms and drinking fountains. If these are available along your route, you can avoid carrying your own water. 4. Notice Dehydration Early Despite your best efforts to keep them hydrated, there may be times when your dog does become dehydrated in the summer heat. Learn to recognize the signs of dehydration, which include sunken eyes, lethargy and loss of appetite. Offer your dog water immediately if you notice these signs. If they don't drink within an hour, call your vet for further instructions. Prolonged dehydration is very dangerous; it can lead to kidney failure, intestinal blockage, and sudden death. 5. Use Sunscreen You wouldn't spend an afternoon in the sun without applying sunscreen, and neither should your dog. There are many pet sunscreens on the market. For best results, purchase one that is endorsed by the AAHA or SPCA. Spray-on formulas are easy to apply. If your pet has short hair, coat their whole body. If they have long hair, you do not need to spray their long-haired body parts. However, you should still apply sunscreen to any area where their hair is sparse. Summer is a time of year that is meant to be enjoyed. If you follow the tips above, you and your furry friend can have fun in the sun without compromising health or safety. If your dog has specific health problems that may impact their ability to tolerate heat, contact your veterinarian before taking them out in the heat for prolonged periods of time. You're always better safe than sorry, and it's perfectly okay to stay inside on the hottest days of the year. Feature image credit

Ginger Belle, a Yorkshire terrier from South Carolina, ran away in early May, 2014. Her distraught owners searched for her all over town but were unable to find her. Thankfully not too long after, Ginger Belle was picked up and brought to a local store where she was scanned for a microchip. Although she was collarless, it's because of Ginger Belle's microchip that she was identified and reunited with her family.  Like Ginger Belle, many pets have benefited from being microchipped; yet there are many owners hesitant to do the same. If you're still unsure, here are some reasons why you should consider it.   image credit   1. It's affordable Depending on the veterinarian, for $25-$50 you can have your pet microchipped. The implant is only the size of a grain of rice, but contains a special ID number that is linked to your contact information. The one time fee includes the implantation, and the registration in a pet recovery database where your contact information is stored. This information should be updated every time you move or change your phone number.   2. It doesn't hurt The microchip procedure doesn't require any anesthetic, and is as simple as the routine shots your pet receives. The microchip is injected between the shoulder blades, beneath the skin’s surface. The process only takes a few seconds, so you'll be in and out of the vet before you know it! The microchip with rice for size comparison. image credit   3. It's permanent Even if your pet wears a collar with tags, a microchip is the only permanent form of identification that won't be able to fall off, be removed, or become illegible. Microchips are designed to work for 25 years, lasting throughout your pet's lifetime.    Dog being scanned for microchip. image credit     4. There's some cool technology that works with it As microchips are becoming more popular, companies like SureFlap have created some really neat technology such as a pet door that can recognize your pet's chip to let him in and out of the house. The door can be programmed to lock and unlock at certain times, and although any pet can exit through it, only the microchipped pet can get back in. This prevents unwanted intruders like raccoons from entering your home.   5. You won't regret it According to the Humane Society, one out of every three pets is lost during their lifetime. This leads to an overwhelming amount of strays, shelter dogs, and unhappy families. Most pet owners should want to do everything possible to prevent losing their furbaby forever, and microchipping is a simple, modern day tool that can increase the chances in reuniting an owner with their lost pet. You won't regret microchipping your pet, but you'll always regret that you didn't if your pet gets lost.    image credit   It's important to remember that a microchip is NOT a GPS able to track your pet, but instead a permanent form of identification. If your pet gets lost and is brought to a shelter or veterinarian, they will scan for the chip and read its unique ID code. It's with that code that your contact information can be retrieved from the lost pet database, leading to a reunion with your pet.   Microchipping your pet is easy, affordable, and your best chance of reuniting with a lost pet. If you want to learn more about microchips there is an abundance of resources on the web and definitely be sure to ask your vet at your pet's next check-up! 

Most pet owners are painfully aware of the nuisance of dealing with fleas. Just a few fleas can have your pet scratching frantically, and those few fleas soon multiply into a multitude of nasty critters. Fleas leave your pet feeling uncomfortable and you feeling frustrated, so it's best to get rid of them as soon as you notice their presence. Fleas are small, dark brown insects that easily jump onto your pet and set up house. They are more prevalent during the summer months or in climates that have warm weather year round. Dogs and cats are more likely to develop a flea infestation when they are outside during the summer, rolling around in the grass and coming in contact with other animals that may have fleas. Your pet inevitably brings the little pests into your home and before you know it, the fleas are not only on your pet, but in your house as well. Fleas feed on the blood of your pet and they can cause more than scratching. Many pets are allergic to flea saliva and develop a condition known as flea allergy dermatitis. It is an extremely itchy condition characterized by severe scratching, hair loss and inflamed skin, which can lead to a secondary skin infection if left untreated. The pet doesn't even have to have a flea infestation since the allergy can be triggered by the bite of a single flea. Pets can also become infected with tapeworms by ingesting fleas that have eaten tapeworm eggs. A severe flea infestation can actually be fatal to very young puppies or kittens. Young pets can develop anemia due to blood loss from the feeding fleas, which may result in death, if not treated promptly. How do you know if your pet has fleas? If you notice your pet scratching, you should comb through the animal's fur with a fine-toothed flea comb. Fleas tend to migrate to warm, dark areas of the body such as the stomach or under the neck. Don't assume that your pet doesn't have any fleas simply because you do not see them at first. If flea dander is present, then your pet has fleas. Flea dander looks like dark specks of dirt that are pulled out in the comb. If you dip the comb in water, the dander will appear reddish. Dander is actually flea feces that has digested blood. You may also notice specks of flea dander on your pet's bed or blankets. The presence of flea dander suggests your pet does have fleas even if you haven't seen them. It is important to be diligent in your efforts to rid your pet and your environment of fleas. There are several products that can effectively help you control a flea infestation on your pet. If you have more than one pet, it is imperative to treat each pet. Contact your veterinarian if you have very young kittens or puppies with a severe flea infestation. You may also need to see your vet for treatment of an elderly pet or one that has a debilitating disease. You will also need to treat and/or wash your pet's bedding thoroughly. Fleas can live in carpets and get into floor cracks so you will need to vacuum thoroughly. It may be necessary to use a fogger product in the house to rid the home of fleas. Getting rid of fleas can be a battle, but with determination and diligence, it's a battle you can win. Want to protect your furry friend from fleas? Our online store stocks heavily discounted (up to 75% off) flea products. Feature image credit Want to protect your furry friend from nasty fleas and ticks? Our online store stocks heavily discounted (up to 50% off) flea and tick products, including Frontline and K9 Advantix. - See more at: http://www.petbucket.com/blog/62918/how-to-keep-fleas-and-ticks-at-bay.html#sthash.oYQqz1Nj.dpuf Want to protect your furry friend from nasty fleas and ticks? Our online store stocks heavily discounted (up to 50% off) flea and tick products, including Frontline and K9 Advantix. - See more at: http://www.petbucket.com/blog/62918/how-to-keep-fleas-and-ticks-at-bay.html#sthash.oYQqz1Nj.dpuf

1. Provide scratchable alternatives!   Cats love to scratch. Unfortunately, if kitty likes scratching on their owner’s favourite sofa they might not enjoy their clawing quite so much.   Image credit   It is important however cats be allowed to display this natural behaviour, which is used to maintain claw condition, mark territory (cats have scent glands in their paws) and stretch the body – so if you don’t want your beloved moggy finding places to scratch on their own, it is a good idea to provide owner approved surfaces for your pet to dig their claws into.   Cat scratching posts come in a variety of shapes and colours and are the traditional choice of cat owners. There are other options now on the market also, such as flat pieces made from corrugated cardboard, which cats love.   Image credit   When choosing a scratching piece of furniture for your cat it is best to observe what they are already scratching in your house and what will therefore be the most appealing to them. Posts that stand vertically are often the choice of cats who like scratching couches, and low cardboard scratchers enjoyed by carpet tearer-uppers.   Image credit   2. Encourage your cat to actually like to scratch their new toy   Just because you buy your cat a beautiful new scratching post doesn’t mean of course they are going to like it at first. Many cats will sniff the new object and walk off in disgust – and return immediately to scratching their old favourite spot on the leather armchair you love.   Image credit So, what to do? Spraying or sprinkling the post with catnip often works extremely well for suspicious cats. It is always a good idea to praise and treat your cat a great deal whenever he paws the post so he comes to associate scratching in that area with rewards.    3. Make your own furniture unappealing   If you take pains to make your cat’s post wonderful and they’re still not completely convinced, make sure to make their other scratching spots ‘unpleasant’ as well.   This can be done simply by spraying anti-scratching sprays which have scent cat’s despise and sends them elsewhere.   Placing double-sided tape on scratching areas is also effective as cats often run away in horror when they feel the stickiness on their pads when they go to ‘renovate’ items in your house with their claws.   Image credit   Secretly spraying your cat with a water pistol if you catch them in the act is also advisable, though be sure they don’t catch you in the act as cats are well known to hold grudges!     4. Give your cat a manicure Cats that live indoors especially can find their claws become over-long and thus painful or irritating to them, making them scratch more than they normally would – as well as making the damage they do far worse.   Image credit   Clipping the ends of your cat’s claws can help kitties with a serious scratching fix and save your furniture if they happen to make mischief.   Feature Image Credit  

Seriously, who doesn’t love a rabbit? Their fluffiness, big ears, wiggly noses, bouncy feet, adorable faces and ultra-cute nature makes them irresistible. Rabbits are fantastic pets but as with any pet; they require time, care and commitment. Despite what many people think, rabbits are not pets suited to children under eight years unless you are prepared to supervise ALL of their play time together.  On average rabbits live 7-10 years and smaller breeds are generally more active, skittish and flighty. Larger breeds are usually more placid and have temperaments better suited to children.  Rabbits naturally form groups so are very social animals who require companionship. It’s preferable that you have at least two rabbits and remember to have them desexed - that saying about rabbits and breeding - it’s not a fallacy!  1. Child’s Play  Rabbits aren’t all that high in the food chain and frighten easily. Fear and flight is how they survive and as such they react strongly to noise and movement. When a rabbit feels frightened, it will kick, scratch, bite and squirm to get away. Not a great pairing with young excitable children.  Mostly rabbits don’t like to be picked up but some will tolerate being handled for short periods. Your child will need to be taught to place one hand under the rabbit’s belly and another supporting its rump when lifting and to be gentle and calm when nursing. If you have a very young rabbit, gentle regular handling will assist their socialisation. 2. Housing Rabbits as predominantly indoor pets is not out of the question. They can be trained to use a litter-box and leash. An indoor rabbit will need a designated, quiet, protected area away from direct sunlight and cold draughts. Ideally, this area should consist of two living spaces; a dark, enclosed space for sleeping and ‘burrowing’, and another that houses food, water and the litter box.  The area needs to confine the rabbit when it is not supervised. Both living spaces must be large enough for the rabbit to lay down and stretch out, stand up on its hind legs and take several hops in each direction. The rabbit should have at least four hours daily to exericise, explore and hop throughout safe areas of your home. Make sure that any electrical cables and furniture are not chewed on. If you train your rabbit to be on a leash, then they’ll love any time outdoors on a grassy area andto enjoy some sunlight.  Rabbits are naturally outdoor creatures who love to run and hop. An appropriately sized outdoor hutch for your rabbit/rabbits should sit within a larger enclosure or be linked to a run. The rabbit must be able to stand up on its hind legs and stretch within the hutch.  The hutch is really for sleep, food and water. It needs to be undercover and protect the rabbit  from rain, wind, sun and predators such as cats, dogs and foxes. A complete flyscreen mesh cover will protect them from mosquitoes that carry disease. Rabbits are sensitive to extremes of weather. A wooden hutch is much better than a metal which will conduct and retain heat. Bedding of straw or sawdust also needs to be provided. 3. Exercise  Rabbits need at least four hours per day of exercise where they can perform all their cute rabbity hops, leaps, climbing, runs and twists. The rabbit run or enclosure should be as large as possible and have some safe raised platforms, tunnels, boxes and access to grass. If you do allow your rabbit to roam freely in the garden (always supervised) then make sure the garden is escape-proof and has no poisonous plants.  It may also surprise you to know that rabbits like toys. Give them a range of toys to play with but beware of small and soft rubber or plastic parts that can be ingested. Try providing a range of cardboard tubes and boxes, boxes with holes cut in them for your rabbit to climb in and out of, short cat perches and hard plastic rings, rattles and balls with a bell inside.    Image credit 4. Food Rabbits love to nibble and chew all day long on grass and anything else they can find. Their teeth don’t stop growing so chewing keeps their teeth to a good size. Rabbits will need a good supply of fresh grass or grass hay available at all times. This should make up 90% of their diet. Some fresh vegetables such as broccoli, cabbage and celery should also be given daily and very occasionally fruit. Small amounts of protein pellets can be supplied. Always have fresh clean water available in a suspended drip or teat bottle.  5. Veterinary Visits Rabbits require sterilisation, regular vaccinations for the Calici virus, health and teeth checks, worming, ear mite and flea prevention. Fleas and mosquitoes carry the Calici virus and myxomatosis which is fatal to rabbits.  6. Grooming  Short-haired rabbits can be brushed weekly but long-haired breeds require daily brushing and shaving during hot weather. Long-haired breeds tend to get seeds caught in their hair which can lead to skin abscesses. Rabbits nails also grow continuously but are worn down by exercise and digging, still you may need to clip their nails occasionally.  7. Cleaning The hutch or living area should be cleaned daily. Any wet or dirty bedding must be replaced and uneaten food removed. The toilet area or litter-box will need emptying and drinking water levels checked. 8. Finding Flopsy Sadly, you can find many unwanted and abandoned rabbits in shelters. You can help by welcoming one or two of these into your family. However, if you are after a pedigree rabbit, then make sure you buy from a registered breeder, ask for the breeding papers and check where they house rabbits to ensure it is safe and hygienic. A bunny walking business will never work, they said. HA! I said. Image credit Feature image credit

Obedience training not only makes your dog a more pleasant companion, it also can help keep your beloved friend safe and sound. These five commands are vital additions to your dog’s training repertoire.   Sit   Image credit Most dogs know how to sit but it is important owners practice this basic skill often so they know their dog will obey quickly, ignoring distractions. The sit command can stop dogs knocking over the young and elderly and make them less likely to drag you across a busy street.   Stay   Image credit   Once you have your dog sitting is important you can ensure they stay put in an emergency. With training, your dog should know to stay sitting until asked to move, however the ‘stay’ command is an extra ‘absolutely don’t move’ that can come in handy in tricky situations.     Come   Image credit   ‘Come’ is not only a useful command around the house when you need your dog to wander your way, but also out and about – especially if you let your dog roam off leash.   Your dog needs to know when they are called they are to come immediately. One of the best ways to train this is to give them their favourite treat when you are teaching them to approach when you call, so they come running at top speed, hungry for their reward.   Leave and Drop it   Image credit Dogs are great at sniffing out tasty things on their adventures, but not all of these things are good for them to eat. If your dog spots or gets a hold of something dangerous ‘leave’ and ‘drop it’ are vital commands to stop them getting themselves into danger.   Feature Image Credit  

With some 83 million dogs and cats in American households as of 2012, it is clear that pet ownership has never been quite as popular as it is today. According to the Humane Society of the United States, the number of households with pets living in them has tripled since the 1970s. Among dog owners alone, 47% of American homes have at least one dog living in them.    When it comes to welcoming a four-legged friend into the home, individuals and families are faced with the choice of adopting a dog or buying a puppy. So how is one to decide between adopting a dog and buying one? The following information is designed to help remove some of the stigma surrounding rescue dogs, and in the process help lower the number of animals in shelters across the country.    Less expensive now and later Buying a purebred or specialty mixed-breed from a breeder or pet store can cost anywhere between $500 and $1000. All that money will go toward lining the pockets of the breeder or pet store owner, encouraging them to continue breeding practices regardless of the need for more puppies of a given breed. Shelters, on the other hand, charge anywhere from $50 to $200 in adoption fees and those costs usually cover initial booster shots and exams to ensure the dog is healthy before joining a family.    Additionally, in the long run, it has been shown that mixed-breed dogs (in particular) live longer and have fewer vet bills on average. Given mixed-breed dogs make up roughly 80% of the shelter population in this country, individuals are far more likely to bring home a healthy mixed-breed dog that will require less costs upfront and throughout their life than a purebred.    Pet with a history rather than an unknown When a dog is purchased from a breeder or pet store, the only facts that are known about that particular dog are those characteristics which are generally associated with the breed as a whole. While most dogs stick pretty close to the characteristics and traits of the greater breed, there is no assurance that any given puppy will grow up and conform to those traits.    Rescue dogs, by contrast, have been evaluated and assessed by shelter staff to determine temperament, behavior, and social skills. When adopting a dog from a shelter, individuals and families get a better idea what type of animal they are adopting compared to bringing home an unknown.    Lives are saved Before going any further, this doesn't mean that the lives of puppies at breeders and pet stores are any less valuable, but they don't face certain death if left in a kill-shelter. By rescuing a dog from a shelter or rescue group, individuals and families are giving that animal a second chance at a loving home environment. More importantly, they no longer have to face the "what if" scenario should they remain in the shelter for too long.    Pet stores, on the other hand, often source their dogs from puppy mills. The only concern of puppy mills is to produce as many pets for pet stores as possible to turn a buck. Purchasing a puppy from one of these stores continues to validate puppy mills and can contribute to larger shelter populations in the future. Feature image credit