Winter can be incredibly hard on a dog's paws. While a dog's paw does form a hard callus, this does not prevent them from the possibility of frostbite or dry and cracking feet. If you live in areas that suffer from particularly harsh weather, there are a few things you will want to do to protect your dog's paws during your winter season adventures. Even if your dog is a cold weather breed, these tips should be used to reduce the possibility of paw damage. Chapped Paws Are Just Like Chapped Lips The winter weather often leads to dryness, which can cause your dog's paws to split or crack. This can be extremely painful for your pet, but luckily it's entirely preventable. Special balms that are formulated for dog pads can be purchased online or at any pet retailer. All you need to do is rub these balms gently into your dog's paw pads on a regular basis. You may need to clip any loose strands of fur on your dog's pad before application, as paw pad balm is usually a thick and waxy material.   Image credit Dog Boots Take Some Getting Used To Dog boots are also an excellent option for pets that need to go out during the winter season, but they do take some practice. You may want to start getting your pup accustomed to walking with their dog boots a few weeks before winter arrives. Dog boots need to be snug but not uncomfortable. You can test the fit of your dog's boots by gently tugging on them and seeing whether they shift. If your dog lifts their paws, whines or hesitates before walking, it is likely the boot is too tight. Stay In During Extreme Weather If the weather is cold enough that you hesitate before going outside, it may be too cold for your pet as well. When the weather has become very extreme, you may need to explore alternate options for your dog. You can consider placing down mats within your mud room or within your garage so your dog can relieve itself during the worst of the winter storms. As long as you create a specific area for your dog, your dog should understand that they are not allowed to go anywhere else in your home. Many dogs absolutely love the winter season, but they aren't aware of the potential dangers. Like a child, your dog will rely on you to protect him or her against the brutal elements. By following a few simple tips, you'll be able to ensure that your dog can continue enjoying the snowy weather without any lasting damage.

If you have a flea problem, you're probably trying to solve it the best way you know how.  But fleas are tough to get rid of.  They're resilient little critters.  Here are three things many people don't know about fleas.  The more you know about them, the more likely you are to get them under control.     Fleas Can Play Dead Okay, they don't really play dead.  They don't whisper to each other, "Here she comes!" and fling themselves down on the carpet with their legs in the air.  But a wet flea can appear dead, because it's immobilized.  Many times a pet owner will use ordinary shampoo--not flea shampoo--on a pet, and afterward, the fleas seem to be dead.  Since the fleas are not moving, the owner decides plain shampoo kills fleas.       But those fleas are not really dead.  When a flea has been thoroughly soaked with water, it won't move--but once it dries out, it will spring back to life.  You can test this yourself.  Just pick a few immobilized fleas off your pet after a bath with ordinary shampoo.  Put them in a baggie and seal it shut.  Set the baggie down, and go off and do something else for a few hours.  When you come back and check, you'll probably see the fleas moving inside the bag--back from the dead.     Fleas Will Wait for You Sometimes, people think they can solve a flea problem by removing pets from a flea-infested house for a while.  Maybe you are leaving your summer home to go back to the city, or you have a vacation house that you won't return to for months.  You assume the fleas will starve to death.     It doesn't work that way.  Fleas come in different stages of growth:  egg, larva, pupa, and adult.  Some immature fleas can lie dormant for a year or more and can survive winter temperatures.  They don't hatch until they sense vibrations--like vacuuming, or people and pets walking around--or carbon dioxide given off by a passing animal.  So when you return to your summer house, even after months away, the fleas hatch out and attack.     Those Brown Specks Are Not Flea Eggs A severely flea-infested pet will be covered with little reddish-brown specks.  Many people assume these specks are flea eggs, but they aren't.  Flea eggs are white and look like salt.  The reddish-brown specks are flea feces, also known as flea dirt.  If your pet and his bed look like they've been sprinkled with salt and pepper, you're seeing flea eggs and flea dirt.     Because fleas eat blood, their feces are basically just dried blood.  If you get the pet wet, you can tell if your pet is covered with flea dirt or is just plain dirty.  Regular dirt makes bathwater brown; flea dirt dissolves in water and makes bathwater red.  A pet owner who washes a pet covered in flea dirt sometimes thinks the red water means Patches or Butch is bleeding from flea bites.  Actually, the red color of the water is the result of dissolved flea dirt.  It's good to know what's really going on if you find yourself startled by red rinse water.     So, there you have it:  three things you might not have known about fleas.  When it comes to fleas, understanding them can make all the difference in beating them.  

Moving is always a pain. If you’re traveling vast distances, it’s a full on headache. You’ve got to have all of your stuff shipped, and pray that it all arrives undamaged. Luckily, there are reputable moving services and insurance for those that can afford it. But what about cargo that’s irreplaceable? What about your dog that’s too big to fit on the flight with you? You can treat your dog as a checked bag, but you’re taking a risk. Since airlines have begun reporting the numbers in 2005 there hasn’t been a single airline that offers pet transportation in the cargo hold with a spotless record. In fact, from 2005 to 2012 there were 330 reports of missing, injured, or dead canines. Though this is a small number relative to the amount of pets that were actually shipped, (an amount that is unfortunately not reported) it’s not exactly an encouraging statistic. If at all possible, you should avoid shipping your pet via airline. There simply are no guarantees, especially with commercial flights. Though major airlines claim that pets are kept in climate controlled, pressurized, and “pet friendly” cargo area, the fact that there have been 38 cases of pets being lost while en route makes one doubt whether they are being treated as living creatures rather than glorified luggage. So you must be wondering, if major commercial airlines can’t be trusted, then who can? There are a few specialty services that offer pet relocation. These niche companies understand that people worry about their pets in stressful traveling situations, and as a result uphold rigorous standards in their caregiving. Companies like Pet Airways cater exclusively to pets, and have dedicated staff monitoring them throughout the flight. So there actually are no human passengers on the flights with the pets. This added level of safety and security makes a specific company like Pet airways your best pet shipping option. Other pet specific airlines include names like: Pet Relocation, Air Animal, and 4 Paws on Wheels. Before trusting your pet with any relocation service, it’s important to thoroughly vet the company and exhaustively research your options. So do your homework before making a final choice. Keep in mind again that it’s much better to avoid having your pet fly in the first place. Unless it is small enough to fit underneath the seat in front of you on the same flight, then you’d be much better served having the animal transported on the ground. Unfortunately, that’s not always an option when you’re traveling over water. So if you must ship your pet, be sure to prepare as much as possible. Underfeed the pet before boarding, this is to limit the possibilities of a distressed stomach and in-air accidents. Do not sedate your animal, this can have very negative health effects at high altitudes. And be sure to have your pet examined by a veterinarian before takeoff. If you can follow these and any other guidelines given to you by the company you employ, you maximize the chances for a positive traveling experience for you and your pet.  

Feral cats and kittens are an interesting dilemma. They capture our hearts and imaginations, and just leaving feral felines, even particularly unsociable ones, to the elements doesn’t sit well in the cat lover’s conscience. So what to do? Can you tame a feral cat? Let’s take a deeper look into this question, and some possible solutions to the feral cat conundrum. What are Feral Cats? First off, a feral cat is not domesticated. They don’t like people. They're distrustful of them, and will hiss and spit at their approach. Or just look to avoid human contact entirely. Feral cats shouldn’t be confused with stray cats. Strays are domesticated cats that have been abandoned, or have run away. These may still be skittish, but ultimately they are much more open to human contact than their feral cousins. Taming Feral Cats As a rule, taming feral cats is very difficult, if not impossible. This isn’t always the best solution. However, there have been recorded cases of successful domestications.   It is a long process that takes plenty of pet know-how, and even more patience. However, if you’re willing to take on the odds then you should follow this basic procedure: Leave out some food, and give them plenty of space. Cat’s respond to food and it usually is the number one builder of trust.   Be patient. This bond you’re trying to build may take weeks, months, or years to manifest. Never approach the cat. Let it come to you. It has to be the one to take the initiative. Just speak sweetly and leave the food bowl out, then go back to your house. Set a routine with feeding, and stick to it. Cats are creatures of habit. If they know food is coming at regular intervals, they’ll make sure to be on time. Also make a signal noise to indicate feeding time. You could whistle, call out “dinner time!” or something to that effect. After some time has passed, a few months perhaps, try sitting outside while they eat. It might not work at first, or at all, but this is the logical next step. Just don’t look at the cat while you’re outside with it. It’ll feel threatened. Eventually, if the cat accepts your presence during meals, it may want to check you out. Don’t try to pet it, or even move toward it. Resist the urge to pet. Leave your hand dangling, and it might start rubbing against that. Just be patient and allow the cat to take the initiative. Take things slow, and in due course, you may make a friend out of the feral feline. Always be wary of bites and scratches, and remember to move in a patient and sequential manner. If this intricate animal whispering process doesn’t sound ideal, then you will have to look for other options. Join us again tomorrow for part 2 of this post, and we’ll examine these other options together.  

Image Credit Pet owners everywhere are up to their eyeballs in dog or cat fur during the hot summer months. Why do cats and dogs shed so much fur? What causes it, and is there any way to slow down the animal shedding onslaught? Today’s topic concerns finding the answers to these questions and explaining the most practical and applicable solutions for pet owners the world over. First off, we need to find out what causes these massive waves of hair loss. As it turns out, it can be a lot of different factors. The main things to consider are the growth phases. Most dogs and cats will begin growing new coats during the spring and fall seasons. That’s because the change in length of the days activates chemical signals in their brains. When the days get longer, the new coat needs to be thinner and shorter. Alternatively, when the days get shorter, the new coat’s got to be  thicker and longer. This is a natural adaptation that allows these animals to  better tolerate the seasonal temperature extremes. This seasonal effect will still be present, but far less pronounced in an exclusively indoor pet. Other things that can cause shedding are damaged hair, stress, and lifestyle. Damaged or broken hair has to be replaced, and just like a human being can go grey or bald due to stress an animal such as a dog or cat can also experience the same phenomenon. Your pet’s coat is  a reflection of its lifestyle which includes diet. So if the coat is getting thin and dull, you might want to rethink your favorite dog food. So what can be done to prevent tumbleweeds of dog or cat hair from making your home look like it’s been covered in shag? You have to abide by the hair removal standards. Grooming- And lots of it! That means brushing at least once a week, it’s often better to do it daily depending on the breed of animal you’ve got. Bathing is another standard you should add to your routine. Cleaning house- No matter how much hair you get off of a fuzzy friend, they’re always going to have more. Be proactive and consistently vacuum to circumvent the total hairy domination of your dwelling place. Shaving- Not so much of a solution for short haired pets, but if you’ve got a  longhaired shedding dog or cat then a seasonal haircut is one of the biggest favors you can do for your four-legged companion. Protect your assets- Furniture throws, lint rollers, and dryer sheets. Make friends with these items. They’ll keep your possessions as fuzz free as can be expected when sharing space with a furry hurricane. Vet visits- Many hair loss cases are a direct result of poor pet health. Make sure to schedule regular visits to your vet’s office to ensure this isn’t the case. It’s a lot of work keeping a clean house with a longhaired pet, so find the right tools and keep a positive attitude. Otherwise you’ll end up under a mountain of pet pelt. 

We’ve gone through the basics of trimming dog’s nails and how to cut cat nails. Now it’s time go over the final details to make any claw clipping session a successful effort. First, let’s review the commonalities between clipping dog’s nails and cat’s nails. With either pet, you’ll need to get them acclimated to the idea of paw handling before ever attempting to trim those talons. You also can use similar tools for either canine or feline feet. These tools include guillotine, scissor, and plier style clippers.. Finally, for both dogs and cats you’ll need to cut above the quick of the nail or you’ll cause bleeding and pain for the animal in question. Now onto the unknown! When things go wrong while claw clipping, as they are occasionally bound to do, it’s important to have a backup plan. So if you accidentally clip a little too high and notice some blood flow accompanied by an uncomfortable cry from your animal, you’ll need to patch that wound up ASAP. That’s where a little bit of Styptic powder comes in very handy. Styptic powder is an Antihemorrhagic, which is doctor speak for something that stops bleeding. Apply this to the end of the claw, (assuming the animal will stay still enough for you to do so) and any leakage will be put to a stop in short order. If you don’t have any styptic powder, some cornstarch or flour can do in a pinch. The next thing you need to consider is a scenario where your dog or cat absolutely refuses to sit still and allow this process to continue. This can be a real mess. If you can, restrain the pet with your forearms placed firmly over their shoulders and hips. This weighs them down at the joints and makes it more difficult for them to move, however squirming isn’t completely eliminated. If this doesn’t work then you might need to recruit a friend to help hold the animal in place. And if that doesn’t work either , then you have no choice but to take your pet to the veterinarian’s office for assistance. Many vets will offer reasonably priced nail cuts for an unruly pet. In the most extreme circumstances this means putting a pet under anesthesia, but that is a very rare scenario reserved for behaviorally challenged pets who’s claws may end up growing into their own paws. One more thing to consider is what might happen without regular trimmings. In short, if left unchecked dog and cat nails will continue growing in ever shaper curves that will cut into their feet causing painful sores or be more prone to cracking, or tearing off when snagged. Thus cutting dogs claws as well as cats can be a very important preventative measure for their health. That about covers the bulk of the basic information on cutting your pet’s claws. So remember to keep it trim, and always come visit the Pet Bucket blog for helpful tips on pet care. Until next time!

Welcome to part 2 of our series on how to cut your pet’s nails. Today we’ll be discussing the basics of clipping claws on cats. Luckily, if you read yesterday’s post, there’s a lot of overlap in feline and canine nail cutting techniques. However, cats are notoriously less social than dogs are so it might be a bit more difficult if you don’t work extra hard on conditioning your cat for trimming nails. Conditioning your Cat This process works very similarly to the one for dogs. You have to start handling a cat’s paws immediately. They are less likely to sit still for it, and much more likely to give you a painful bite or swat for your trouble. So to avoid a trip to the first aid kit, it would behoove you to wait for an ideal opportunity. Wait until your cat is taking one of its dozen daily naps and softly touch its paw. Most cats can’t stand this, so they’ll either pull away, or walk away. Don’t force the issue. If the cat is finished then let it be. However, every time you get the opportunity this is a process you should repeat. It’s best to combine paw handling with regular petting as well. That way the cat will start to associate their paws being touched with pleasant sensations. Eventually, the cat will become comfortable with you touching its paws. Now’s the time to take it a step further, and inspect the paw. Use your thumb and forefinger to squeeze the cat’s finger joints. This will unsheathe the cat’s claws. You can see from there whether there are any splits or cracks. Those are clear signs it’s time for claw clipping. Claw Clipping Tools Many of the same tools used for trimming nails on dogs can be used for cat claws as well. However, a rotary tool should never be used on a cat, and scissors style clippers should only be used on the dew claw, which tends to grow in a circle because it isn’t ground down while walking or clawing. You can even use a regular pair of human nail clippers. Just make sure to be extra cautious. Quick Tips If you think your dog was upset when you accidentally trimmed too far, you’ll be shocked at the cat’s reaction. They’ll never forgive you. Cat quicks are easy to avoid because of their lightly colored claws. You can clearly see the pink hued quick within. If you have an especially squirmy kitty, have a friend hold it still while you’re claw clipping. Otherwise place your forearms firmly over the cat’s shoulders and hips to hold it in place while you’re trimming. Finishing Touches You’ll find it easier to clip more than one claw at a time in most cases, so fit as many claws beyond the cutting line as possible, make sure you aren’t beyond the quick, and make a surgical strike. It’s also best to keep nail trimming on a schedule. Once every 10 to 14 days is good. And never ever try to cut cat nails when the animal is agitated. It won’t go well. That’s all for today’s post. Check back again tomorrow for our final summation on animal claw clipping!

Image Credit Do you remember when you were a kid and your mom or dad would make you sit still and cut your nails? It was never a positive experience. You wanted to squirm and play, but you had to remain motionless and bored for however long it took. Dogs and cats feel the exact same way. Claw clipping doesn’t come naturally to animals. They’d much rather have sharp talons with which to grip and tear. That’s why getting them comfortable with handling their paws isn’t always the easiest of endeavors. Dogs and cats alike don’t really care for the procedure, and for humans it can be a complex situation. So in the spirit of simplification, Petbucket will be publishing a series of blog posts to help educate you on the basics of claw clipping. Today’s subject is how to cut dog’s nails. Getting Comfortable Dogs are naturally averse to having their paws touched. So it’s important to internalize this behavior early on. You should begin handling your puppy’s paws as soon as you bring them home, that way they won’t be so mortified at the idea of nail clipping later on. Weapon of Choice You won’t get much done unless you have the right equipment. There are several options for cutting dog’s nails. You have guillotine, scissors, pliers, and grinders. The most popular among professionals are the pliers style. These are spring loaded and adept at clipping claws, even thick ones, with minimal effort. Scissors and guillotine nail clippers work exactly like they sound. Either with a close handed grip or with the flick of a switch, off goes the top of the nail. Alternatively, grinder style clippers work like Drimmels. They slowly sand down the nail with rotary action rather than a clean cut. Where to Cut? A dog’s nail is not like a human’s. They are connected to blood vessels and sensitive nerves in an area called the Quick. If you cut the quick, your dog will likely yelp in pain, run for cover, and forever fear your claw cutting sessions together. So to avoid this, it’s necessary to learn the anatomy of a dog’s claw. Use this simple diagram for reference: This process is much easier when your dog has lightly colored nails. This is because the pink quick will be fairly visible underneath the translucent white casing. On dark colored nails however, you must be much more careful. It’s probably best to make several shallow cuts to ensure you won’t get overzealous on your first try. It will take longer, but your dog will appreciate your patience. Location Location Location When you feel comfortable enough to give it a try, it’s time to find a comfortable spot for trimming dog claws. It has to be a spot where both you and your dog can feel relaxed. Some people like to sit on the floor, while others prefer a bed or couch. There’s no wrong way to handle it, just make sure you have control over the dog’s position and you both feel comfortable sitting there. That’s all for today’s lesson. Check back tomorrow for more nail cutting clues!

While most cats are usually lovable, adorable, and infinitely happy to be caressed, there are times when a feline can become aggressive. Curbing that aggression can be easier said than done. Cats are complex and moody creatures with a penchant for being unmanageable when they’re apt. Discovering why cats bite can be a lot of work. Understanding feline aggression means recognizing the signs of an outburst and knowing the causes thereof.   Causes of Cat Aggression: Play - When a cat, especially a young one, is at play it exhibits natural predator behavior. This means it’s swatting with claws out, scratching, and biting. This could be aimed at your hand or foot. They might even try to sneak attack you while you’re rounding a corner. Territorial- Cats are extremely territorial towards one another. If introduced in close proximity to another feline, your cat might have an adverse reaction. Prey- Cats are skilled predators. They’re stealthy, quick, agile, and they possess sharp claws and teeth great for eviscerating small prey. Their natural evolutionary drives have left them with a strong urge to attack and kill smaller birds or rodents. This can be one of the most difficult types of cat aggression to stop. Fear – When an unfamiliar and unwelcome stimulus pops up on the cat’s idyllic world they can often show unwanted aggression. This can be towards strangers, other animals, or even unfamiliar objects being introduced into their environments Pain- This is sort of a no brainer, but if a cat is suffering from some sort of medical condition, or is simply mishandled this can lead to hissing, scratching, and biting. Even long after the fact, in the case of injury. Misplaced- Cats can also get worked up by something they see and then immediately turn that anger toward another person or animal. An example of this could be a cat seeing something that displeases it outside the window, i.e. another cat, a bird, etc.; and then attacking you when you try to shoo it off of the window sill. Signs of Cat Aggression: Cats have body language just like people. It’s important to be able to read your cat, and learning to do that precisely will take time and observation. However, there are a few tell-tale signs you can look out for like dilated pupils, a twitching tail, a low crouch with feet tucked under, and ears that are quickly flicking back and forth. What to Do? First off, never punish your cat physically. It does nothing, they don’t understand it, and it’s likely to increase anxiety which will in turn increase aggression.  Secondly, take the cat to a vet. Many aggression issues are due to physical discomfort which a vet visit can quickly clear up. You can also quit paying any attention. Often a cat’s frustration is due to something you’re doing. As soon as they begin to exhibit aggressive behavior, simply walk away. Most importantly, if problems persist, you’ll need to see a pet behaviorist to diagnose and solve a problem with specificity.

 With summer months around the corner, everyone is beginning to plan their vacation getaways. For a lot of people that means setting their pets up in kennels. Inversely, there are a brave few who try to take their furry companions on the road with them. Traveling with pets can be a risky venture if you aren’t prepared for the rigors of the road. Here are a few pet safety tips to get you started. Always practice proper restraint: Pets aren’t always the best listeners, and in the back of a car that can occasionally prove to be a deadly distraction. It’s a good idea to keep your dog or cat safe and in one place while you’re en route. There are a couple of very simple methods for minimizing movement whenever you take your pet for a ride. Pet harnesses are usually very affordable and effective. They hook up to the seatbelt and hold your pet in place. A pet carrier is a more preferable option. The animal is more likely to feel comfortable in an enclosed space, and being confined they won’t feel the need to roam about inside the car’s cabin. Smaller Portions Prevent Car Sickness: If you’re planning on taking a road trip with dogs or cats, you’ll need to make a few adjustments to the regular meal schedule. It’s best to serve a small meal first when you take your pet with you on an extended car ride. Half of their regular portion should do the trick. If the trip is longer than 6 hours you might want to intersperse a few snack breaks along the way as well. Also make sure your dog or cat is getting plenty of water. Don’t Leave Pets in a Parked Car: Trips with pets require constant vigilance. That’s why you must never leave a pet alone in a parked car. This is a ticketable offense under anticruelty laws. Leaving a pet unattended in a parked car can cause harm to the animal. Parked cars can quickly become overheated on a hot day, even in the shade. Prolonged exposure to this sort of environment can quickly dehydrate a dog or cat. It’s also not a good option to leave your windows rolled down. That puts your pet’s safety in jeopardy, and opens up the possibility of theft. Bring Toys: Just like some people need Sudoku to get through a long drive, pets get bored too. They need a familiar heirloom to keep them from getting overwhelmed by the traveling process. Take a favorite toy, and maybe some kind of cushioning to keep them comfortable. A dog bed would be a perfect example.  The familiarity of the object is important as well. This is because the animal is likely to be confused by an all-new environment with nothing familiar in it. It boils down to keeping your animal still, nourished, occupied, and under watch. These are key ingredients to remember whenever traveling with pets. Check back soon for more helpful pet information.