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Pet Bucket Blog

Filtered by tag ('tips and tricks')

When's The Best Time To Feed Your Cat

 by jaime on 27 Aug 2014 |
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Being responsible for the health and wellbeing of a cat is a huge responsibility and a large part of that is your ability to feed them a balanced and nutrient rich diet to promote longevity, energy and a healthy weight. Coupled with this, deciding on how and when to feed your cat can also bear an impact on their wellbeing - so what are you supposed to do? Repeat after me: routine! Routine! Routine! Whatever method of feeding you choose to use - stick with it. Cats thrive on a steadfast routine and in their case, variety is certainly not the spice of life. Firstly, it's important to consult your vet about the amount and type of food your cat should be eating. The amount will not only be based on their age but their size and usual energy output. You will have to monitor your cat's energy and adjust the amount of food they receive. If your cat is a true lazy bones, you should be thinking of reducing the amount they eat, whereas if your kitty is full of beans, they could probably benefit from an increase in diet intake. Feeding methods Free-choice This is a very common way to feed your cat and is popular with both owners and cats alike. Free-choice feeding is when the allotted amount of food is left out for cats to graze on whenever they feel like it. Cats like it because they usually prefer small meals throughout the day. Owners like it because there's not much effort required, which is particularly handy if you work long or random hours. A free-choice feeding regime works best for dry food because it is less likely to spoil. However if your cat is very fond of food, this is not the method for you because free-choicing can often lead to obesity. Portion-controlled Like humans who have a 'healthy appetite', cats can often benefit for some portion control. Portion control feeding involves a cat's daily recommended amount of food to be measured out and given, either in one or two meals. If you opt for two meals, leave around 8-12 hours between each meal. This method is particularly useful if your cat needs to loose a few pounds, however the only trouble is you'll have to make sure you are available at the same time(s) each day to dish out meal time.   Timed-feeding Timed feeding requires a greater level of commitment from you and probably some protests from your cat! This method is a great way to get a snap shot of your cat's true amount of food intake and will help combat any over eating. Like the portion controlled method, you dish out up to two meals a day for your cat based on the amount of food that is required for them, except you only leave their bowl out for no more than 30 minutes. Once the allotted time is up, you remove the dish out of view, including any left overs. It might be a rude shock for your cat at first, but they will soon learn that they don't have all day to graze. Additional tips: When and how you feed your cat is totally up to you, however if you have a cat that likes to wake you up very early, then feeding them late at night should put a stop to any very early wake up calls. Following on, it's important that before you give your cat their final meal for the day (or their only meal) make sure you engage in some non-food related bonding time, such as petting, brushing, playing or a nice cuddle. This is crucial because you don't want your cat to only regard you as their food source, which can also help with any early morning cries for food. If you still are unsure as to when to feed your cat, choose times of day that are less chaotic for you and the rest of your household. So if your mornings are busy with taking children to school or getting ready for work - either feed your cat before everyone else is up or wait until much later in the day - just remember routine, routine, routine! Feature image credit  

How To Put Weight On An Underweight Dog

 by jaime on 27 Aug 2014 |
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Is your dog weighing much less that it's supposed to? It's important for dogs to maintain a healthy weight and in fact, an underweight dog can be at risk as much as an overweight dog. First things first, whether your dog is a new addition or been a life-long companion, you must take them to the vet so the cause of this weight loss can be investigated prior to any new weight-gaining diets beginning. Some potential reasons for weight loss include: Parasites Underfeeding (dog is burning more calories that being fed) A food intolerance Intestinal obstruction Problem with teeth or gums Intestinal worms Digestive disorders Kidney failure If your dog appears weak and lethargic and you see all of your dog's bones sticking out, even the head and facial bones, take them to the vet immediately so medical treatment can commence. Once your pooch has been thoroughly investigated by your vet and any illnesses have been treated, you can begin the task of adding more weight to your dog's frame. Bear in mind, it can take around six weeks for a sufficient weight gain to be achieved. Either your vet can inform you or you can figure out for yourself how many calories your dog will require each day. Depending on your dog's size, the amount of calories can range from 450 calories right up to 2400 calories a day! There are various methods you can adopt, purely dependent on your preferences and your dog's needs, but never, NEVER feed your dog one large meal and no meals one hour prior and post exercise to prevent bloat and other devastating gastric complications arising. It's recommended you feed your dog around four small meals a day, approximately six hours apart. Ways to increase your dog's weight: Even if they're no longer a youngster, feed your dog high-quality puppy food. Add healthy human foods to your dog's food to promote weight gain. Try a few spoonfuls of pasta or rice to add a bit of bulk. Low-sodium chicken broth or sauces and gravy especially made for dogs can make human foods more delicious. You should never use human sauces and gravy for your dog's meal as they are very bad for them. Make sure the food you give is of a high quality. If it's dry food you're using, you can add hot water, allow it to cool and your dog will love its mushy consistency! Add cottage cheese, pumpkin, sweet potato, green beans and apples (no core or pips) to your pooch's meal to promote weight gain. A classic way to get your dog to put on weight is to make them "satin balls." Made with cheap hamburger meat, it helps dogs to put on weight quickly because it is high in fat. The other ingredients also have nutritional benefits so while they are high in fat, your dog is not missing out on other key nutrients. If your dog is up to it, they should be getting plenty of exercise. If you are unable to take them out for a walk, then make sure you fit in plenty of play time around the house or garden. Additional tips: Whenever your dog eats, make sure you praise them. It will create positive associations (especially useful for fussy eaters) and encourage further eating. Never leave out unlimited amounts of food, no matter how underweight your dog is. The right amount of food to stick with is the amount of calories your dog should be ingesting based on their ideal healthy weight. Weigh your dog twice a day. Note the weight, the amount you fed your dog and how much of it they ate. This helps you to monitor and gauge whether your new weight-gaining feeding plan is working. Make sure your dog is getting plenty of fluids. Feature image credit

Should You Consider A Dog Walker?

 by simone on 26 Aug 2014 |
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Exercise, play, mental stimulation and socialisation are important for your dog’s wellbeing, health and development. These activities also minimizes boredom, destructive and unwanted behavior such as chewing furniture and barking when alone.   However, our hectic lives make it hard to juggle the demands of work, running a household, raising a family and other time pressures we experience. Allocating time for your dog’s daily exercise can be impossible. And sometimes, life throws you a curve ball in the form of illness, temporary incapacity and immobility or busy periods and you may need a short-term solution.   Dogs are social animals and do not like to be left alone for hours. This is unavoidable as we need to make a living after all. If you live in an apartment, it’s unlikely your dog is exercising at all during the day. Even if you have a backyard, your dog may be exercising but may not be getting the level of socialisation and interaction required.   If you are away for most of the day, know your dog is not getting the exercise or stimulation it needs, have neighbours complaining about barking and whining, are coming home to toilet mess or chewed furniture, or are noticing changes in the behavior of your dog, then It might be time to consider hiring a dog walker.   Choosing a dog walker Hiring a service is never cheap and you should take it seriously as you will be leaving the care of your beloved pet in the hands of another and will also need to trust them in your home.   You should ask potential walkers a range of questions and consider the needs of both you and your dog. Your dog’s age, breed, temperament, health, energy level and exercise preference will influence who is the right dog walker for you.   The best place to start is to seek advice from your vet, local pet store, trainers or friends and family who can recommend a dog walker. Request the walker provide referrals and client testimonials. How long have they been operating and have there been any problems, injuries or dog deaths, client complaints, legal suits? Do they have insurance and what type do they have, when does it expire and what does it cover? Ask about their qualifications, certification, experience or if they are members of any relevant pet associations. This information will indicate their dedication, professionalism and the likelihood they can manage any possible behavioural or health issues. A good dog walker should be knowledgeable about dog training, behavior and even first aid. Outline what you expect and any special needs, health or safety concerns for your dog.  Have the walker meet your dog and all go on a walk together. Observe how your dog responds to them and how they interact and handle your dog. Some dogs love to play with others and will happily run around once at the dog park. Others prefer to be walked. Find out what the walker has planned and whether it suits your dog and what you want. With large companies you may not get the same walker each time. Find out how they arrange their bookings and exactly who will be walking your dog. If you have hired an individual or are using a small company, ask who the back-up person will be in case your walker becomes ill or is unavailable. You should also check the any additional walker's or back-up walker's experience and references. How many dogs do they take at a time and how do they group the dogs - by age, size, breed? How well does your dog socialise with others? Will this be problematic or beneficial for your dog? Will your dog be in a car? For how long? How are dogs restrained in the car?  What training techniques do they use? Will they adhere to your training preference and commands? How do they handle aggresssion or other behavioural issues.  Where will they walk your dog and which park will they go to? How long will they be exercised for, not total time in the walker’s care but actual time exercising? Are they aware of local council rules about leash compliance and cleaning up?  What will happen if it rains or very hot or cold days? Once you have your dog walker Provide treats, lead, collar and back-up lead, collar and ID tag for your dog. Your dog’s identification tag should have your current contact details. Make sure your walker has your contact details and the address and phone number of your vet. You may need to inform your vet that the walker has your permission to seek treatment for your dog in an emergency. Have regular catch-ups to make sure there are no problems and that they, and more importantly your dog, are happy.   Feature image credit

Which Cats Cope Best Living With Other Cats, Dogs or Children?

 by simone on 26 Aug 2014 |
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Cats are generally not as social as dogs. In fact, cats naturally hunt alone and often prefer solitude. But, each breed is different and each cat is an individual. Many cats actually love company and have temperaments suited to living with other cats, children and even dogs.   Just like dogs, cats too need to undergo socialisation at a young age with people and ideally with other cats and domestic animals so that they do not feel stressed or fearful when in their company. Socialisation should include gentle petting and handling of kittens and this will also make grooming and health checks much easier.   As with all animals, cats will display aggression if they feel threatened, are in pain or unwell, are jealous or guarded about their food and territory, and will sometimes exhibit dominant behaviour. The more socialisation they have had, the greater the variety of people and animals they have mixed with and the more situations they have experienced, then the less chance your cat will react aggressively or feel stressed.   The majority of cats, no matter the breed, can live happily with other dogs or children if they have had time to become accustomed. Often a cat and dog raised together become good friends and have no problems living in the same home.   Spaying or neutering your cat will also reduce some aggressive and unwanted behaviour, particularly in male cats, and it will also make them calmer.   Each cat will have its own unique personality however there are also some breeds with characteristics that will make them more compatible to sharing a home. If bringing a cat into a home with an existing cat, dog or lively children, then cats with the following temperaments will do better than others.    Cats with the following temperaments will be better suited to living with other cats: Not territorial Sociable and friendly Easy-going Adaptable With dogs: Not territorial Sociable and friendly Easy-going Adaptable Playful Active Robust Intelligent and curious Tolerance for loud noises and sudden movements Amiable Breeds that are generally known for the above temperaments include: Japanese Bobtail, Ragamuffin, Bombay, Chartreux, Burmese, Ocicat, American Shorthair, Maine Coon, Turkish Angora and Sphynx.   With children: Not territorial Docile  - enjoys being handled and pet Sociable and friendly Calm and patient Adaptable Playful Active Robust Intelligent and curious Tolerance for loud noises and sudden movements Loving and affectionate Gentle and good-natured Attention seeking Loyal – easily bonding with all members of the family Attentiveness Enjoys companionship Breeds that are generally known for the above temperaments include: Bombay, Ragamuffin, American Curl, Japanese Bobtail, American Bobtail, Chartreux, Burmese, Ocicat, American Shorthair, Maine Coon, Turkish Angora, Sphynx and American Curl.   Other breeds known to be sociable, calm, intelligent and playful include: Burmese, Ragdoll, Birman, Cymric, Manx, Scottish Fold, British Shorthair, Abyssinian, Singapura, Russian Blue, Oriental, Siamese, Tonkinese, Australian Mist, Burmilla, Moggie   Feature image credit

Older Dogs Benefit From Training Too

 by danielle on 26 Aug 2014 |
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The old adage ‘You’re never too old to learn something new’ just as neatly applies to dogs as it does to people. Old dogs are quite capable of learning new tricks and can indeed benefit from it greatly.   As dogs age there is the tendency for owners to decrease the amount of activities they engage in. They may after all suffer from arthritis or just be sleepier than they used to be, and even tire a great deal more after taking the same length of walk that they used to.   But that doesn’t mean they can’t continue ‘brain-exercises’, something that many vets recommend. Training can be a great way to keep an older dog stimulated and excited about life even though they can’t run and jump as much as they used to. Tricks after all don’t have to include leaping in the air to catch a treat or roll-over – it can be as simple as ‘speak’ or ‘drop’ – all tricks that require very little physical exertion.   Here are some trick ideas to consider for seniors:   Shake:   This can be achieved by picking up the dog’s paw in your hand and then praising and giving a treat whilst saying ‘Shake!’ Do so repeatedly to build the association between the treat, and the touching of the paw. Eventually, try saying the command and not pick up the paw, but putting your hand only near it. If your dog moves it even slightly, praise and reward. Over time raise your hand higher and wait for the dog to paw it before rewarding.   ‘Which hand?’:   Secretly put a treat in one of your hands. Then place both hands in a fist in front of your dog, one empty, one with something yummy hidden inside. Ask: ‘where’s the treat?’ Your dog should sniff out the correct hand but don’t immediately given it to them. Wait until they try to get the treat out with their paw in frustration before rewarding and praising. With practice your dog will learn tapping the correct hand will yield the treat.   Twirl:   Take a treat and put your hand in front of your dog’s nose. Guide them in a circle and say ‘twirl’ praising them and rewarding when the circle is complete. Repeat a number of sessions, then try saying ‘twirl’, waiting a beat before guiding them part or all of the way, depending on their memory level. Remember to reward even the smallest sign of the dog trying to do the movement on their own. Ultimately, your dog should happily do a neat little twirl when asked.    In the end though, it is not the tricks themselves that matter but the time you spend together and the mental stimulation your dog is given during the learning process.  At any age, an active dog, whether that be physically or mentally, is a happy dog.   

What To Do If You Overcut Your Cat’s Nails

 by danielle on 23 Aug 2014 |
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Clipping a cat’s nails is no easy task. Keeping a struggling cat still while trying to get the clippers around the right nail and making sure not to take off too much is challenging to say the least. Inevitably, accidents sometimes happen.    If you cut the quick of a cat’s nail they won’t be happy. The quick contains highly sensitive blood vessels and nerve endings, similar to the pink part of a human fingernail. Bleeding, pain – and possibly a scratch for you – will result from accidently trimming the nail too far.     Try to keep a hold of your cat if you do interfere with the quick. Squeeze the tip of the claw to reduce the flow of blood, being careful to not to apply pressure to the entire paw which will have the opposite effect and increase blood flow.   It is advisable to keep styptic powder or a styptic pencil in your grooming kit as this can be used to quickly contract the blood vessels of an open wound. If you do not have access to styptic products, rubbing the nail with cornstarch or over a dry bar of soap can also help.   Whilst painful, an overcut nail is not a serious injury and should heal relatively quickly. However, your cat’s suspicions of the nail-cutting process are likely to be longer lasting. It may take time and effort to convince them they are unlikely to suffer further pain when they see you coming towards them with the clippers.   To reassure them, we recommend regularly massaging your cat’s paws when they are relaxed and giving them a treat to create positive associations before attempting another clipping session again.   

When Should Children Be Allowed To Walk Dogs Alone?

 by jaime on 23 Aug 2014 |
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  Children absolutely love having a family dog around and no doubt are always keen to join you when you take your pal out for its daily walk, but when is it OK for them to go walking unaccompanied with their pooch? Children should at least be twelve years of age before you can even consider allowing them to walk a dog unattended. However age should not be the only factor for you to consider... Is the child and dog mutually respectful? Does the dog follow directions from the child? Has the dog ever shown signs of aggression? Has the dog ever chased cars or other animals? Can the child read the dog's body language? Can the child interpret situations make appropriate decisions? Will your child be physically capable of handling the dog? A 70lb child will struggle to handle a 30lb dog. If you are unsure about any of these, now is probably not the right time to allow your child to walk the dog. In any case, prior to their first solo outing, make sure both child and dog are prepared by following these tips: Before any dog walking commences, why not have your child volunteer at a local shelter to get used to different types of dogs and learn more about how dogs communicate and pinpoint any unfriendly behaviour. Take your child with you when you go for a walk and slowly build up to them taking control of the leash, gradually increasing the distance that they do so. Once they've built up the confidence you can start to hang back a little bit and observe how they do. You should ask your child probing questions about what they would do in challenging situations, such as if another dog approaches. It's important to try and prepare them as best you can so they aren't startled if something unusual should happen. Make sure you always remind them what a big responsibility it is to walk the dog and that they must always pay attention to what is going on around them. Importantly, you should take into consideration your neighborhood and your usual walking route. What are the local dogs like? Are there many strays? If you don't think it's safe enough, then it's probably not a good idea to allow your child to go walking alone. However, the most ideal situation is to go walking as a family and make it an activity everyone gets involved in and enjoys!

When To Switch Your Cat To Adult Food

 by jaime on 22 Aug 2014 |
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  Bringing home a kitten is an exciting time, full of transition, discovery and plenty of cute moments. Before you know it, they are fast approaching adult hood and a whole new range of changes are required, including their diet. Kitten food is specifically made for kitties up until a year old. It will contain high levels of protein and fat which provides them with plenty of energy which is needed whilst their bodies are growing and developing. Protein also helps your cat's muscles to develop. Kitten food is also full of essential minerals like calcium, potassium and phosphorus for their teeth and bones. At one year of age, your cat enters adulthood and while they may still seem their usual playful, kitten selves, their bodies are starting to now require different things to see them through a happy and healthy adulthood. This is when you will need to begin the transition to adult food. The transition should take place over a week, where you slowly introduce the new food. On the first two days, the ratio should be 75% kitten food and 25% adult food. On the third and fourth days, it should be 50% of each while days five and six the combination will now be 25% kitten food and 75% adult food and then on the seventh day your cat should be eating just adult food. By following this method, you will avoid any stomach and digestive upsets. While your cat is making the switch, keep a close eye on their weight and general overall health to make sure they are receiving the right amount of food. Initially you should give them the amount recommended and if you feel they are being fed too much or too little, adjust portion sizes accordingly. You should always choose a high quality food product as these are better equipped to keep weight under control, deliver all the essential vitamins and minerals, and strengthen the body and immune system. Following this, your kitten will be all set for a strong and healthy adulthood.

Adopting an Older Cat

 by jaime on 20 Aug 2014 |
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  If you're thinking about adopting a new cat, have you considered taking home an older cat to become your new forever friend. While many people feel that they may only have a few good years left with an adult cat, don't forget that many cats can live well into their teens or twenties, so you'll have plenty of many happy, healthy years together. People also worry that an adult cat must have many behavioural issues, but usually it's because of the previous owners that a cat ends up in a shelter. As you can imagine, many people opt to adopt cute, playful kittens, but there are many benefits to choosing an adult cat. Benefits to adopting an older cat: If you work full-time or lead a busy lifestyle, an older cat is perfect because they tend to be more independent and are quite happy to spend time home alone. Are often already litter-box trained. However be prepared for some mishaps, which is a common occurrence when introduced to new and unfamiliar surroundings. Adult cats are less boisterous so are a great option for families with children or seniors. Adult cats are usually less maintenance. Their personalities are already developed, so you will know what you're getting. Older cats tend to get on well with your existing pets. Usually you'll get to know the full history of the cat, including its medical history. Some things to remember: At the rescue shelter, be open about your lifestyle and home life so you can be recommended cats that would suit your life perfectly. Your potential new cat could've been mistreated by a previous owner so be prepared to take on the extra baggage, which will require extra patience. Some older cats are set in their ways, so before you take them home make sure you are compatible. If the cat you are set on was abandoned or is a stray – it won't be possible to know its full medical history, so make sure it gets a thorough medical examination – either by your own vet or at the rescue shelter. Bringing your new cat home: Before bringing your new cat home, make sure you've bought all the supplies you need in advance. Get your cat micro-chipped and a collar with your details on it in case they become lost. Set up a private room, preferably away from high-traffic areas so your cat can get used to their new strange environment in their own time. Make sure there is food and water bowls, a litter tray and plenty of toys for them to play with. Keep them on a structured routine – this will greatly help them to settle in to their surrounds. Don't bombard your new friend too much. Give them plenty of space and be patient – let them get familiar with their new home in their own time. After this initial period, start to introduce your cat to other members of your house – including other cats, if you have them. During the first week, visit the vet to get them checked over. Feature image credit  

How To Control Food Intake For Multiple Cats

 by michelle on 19 Aug 2014 |
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A large percentage of cat owners have more than one cat. This can complicate things in terms of food, especially if one of your cats is on a diet. Here are some tips to make controlling food intake in a multi-cat home a bit easier: 1. No more free-choice feeding. This method of feeding is fine if you have only one cat, but in a multi-cat home it keeps you from being able to monitor each cat’s food intake. Although free-choice feeding is convenient, switching to a scheduled meal feeding method instead will be beneficial to your cat that’s on a diet. 2. Designate feeding stations. If possible, take advantage of the multiple rooms in your home by isolating the cat on a diet. Ideally these rooms should have doors. When it’s meal time, separate this cat from the others and give them their allotted food. Allow 20-30 minutes for them to finish and then remove their bowl.  If you don’t have separate rooms, consider feeding the slimmer cat on a surface the overweight cat is unable to jump on to, such as a counter or shelf. Others have also recommended using the cat carrier as a safe and secure feeding station for your cat. If completely isolating your cats is impossible, try to feed them as far away from each other as possible and keep a watchful eye. Monitoring your cats will allow you to make sure that each cat is eating from their own bowl. Note: Water bowls should be available to all cats at all times throughout the day. 3. Make it a routine. If you want to succeed with meal feeding, it’s best that you stick to a schedule. Cats like routine, and will quickly learn that they have 20-30 minutes to eat in their designated feeding station. With feeding stations, a strict schedule, and/or meal monitoring, you can ensure that your cats are always eating their own food, and hopefully start to see results in your overweight cat. As always, talk to your veterinarian to find out what feeding schedule will meet each of your cat's individual needs. image credit  
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