Empty cardboard boxes may seem like trash to us, but to our feline friends, they offer a safe space to sleep, keep warm and hide from passersby. It’s no wonder cats love to play in boxes, then, which offer them safety and security from the outside world.   Predators by nature, cats are experts at finding spots to hide while watching their prey. Though our domesticated pets no longer need to hunt to survive, the instinct remains and cardboard boxes provide the perfect vantage for scoping out passersby. By hiding, your cat can quickly dash out and catch whatever walks past—though his target is more likely to be your feet than his next meal these days.   Cats’ love for boxes stretches to comfort, too. Small spaces provide the ideal retreat or “safe zone" for Kitty to have an undisturbed catnap. This is important, given that cats can sleep up to 20 hours a day and don’t want anyone sneaking up on them while they’re asleep. Cats also naturally have a higher body temperature than humans—around 100 to 102 degrees Fahrenheit, compared to our 98.7 degrees—so they are more comfortable in warmer settings. Boxes provide great insulation, so it’s no wonder owners often find their felines nestled up inside one.   Though they have many practical purposes, boxes also pique cats’ curiosity. Inquisitive by nature, your pet can’t resist exploring any new object left in his home. While cardboard doubles as a great scratching post and is a feline favorite, cats will explore any small containers left out, from suitcases to wooden crates and open dresser drawers.   Because they offer safety and security, boxes can help put nervous pets at ease. When moving, try placing a box or two in your new home to give your cat a safe space from which to explore his new surroundings. When introducing a new pet to the household, or if you’re away for long periods of time, leave an empty box out to help calm your cat. A report published in Applied Animal Behaviour Science backs claims that boxes help relieve stress: Researchers found that, among a group of cats arriving at an animal shelter, those randomly assigned to receive a box adapted to their new surroundings faster than their box-free peers. It’s our feline friends love cardboard boxes and the comfort and security they provide.

Cats evolved in arid environments, making them well adapted to tolerating thirst. Too little water can increase your pet’s risk for developing urinary crystals, though, meaning it’s crucial to keep Kitty well hydrated. Pawing at his water bowl may be your pet’s way of saying he isn’t happy with his current dish, but there are changes you can make to ensure your cat stays healthy and hydrated. Cats have sensitive whiskers, which can explain why some avoid their water bowls. Whiskers are equipped with touch receptors that give your cat a heightened sense of feeling ideal for navigating his surroundings, but this can also cause “whisker stress” when your pet drinks from a small dish. Instead of squashing his whiskers against the side of the bowl, your pet may opt to dip his paw in the dish and drink water that way. Or, he might resort to drinking from leaky faucets or the toilet to avoid the unpleasant sensation of squishing his whiskers. If you suspect whisker stress is causing your pet’s water woes, try using a flatter, shallower dish.   Cats naturally seek out running water, too, which can explain why some avoid diving face-first into their water bowls. Flowing water is more likely to be fresh, which is why some pets prefer to get their water from faucets or dip their paws into the dish to aerate the bowl. To help ensure Kitty’s water stays fresh, try changing it twice a day, or you can consider purchasing an automatically recirculating water fountain designed specifically for cats. It’s best to use a stainless steel bowl, too, rather than a plastic dish that can give off an odd odor.   While instincts and comfort can explain some cats’ odd behavior when it comes to water, others paw at their bowls for more practical reasons. Water levels vary in the dish and cats are often trying to gauge its height, especially older pets with poor eyesight. To help Kitty see the water in his dish, get a bowl with a design on the bottom and try to keep water levels constant in the bowl. Sometimes, however, our feline friends are simply playing. Cats are curious by nature and using their paws to make ripples in the dish provide them with entertainment. While this sort of behavior is normal, it can make a mess. Recirculating water fountains designed for cats won’t just keep your cat’s water fresh, but can help reduce the mess your pet makes when splashing in his bowl.

The American Humane Association estimates that more than 10 million cats and dogs are lost or stolen in the United States each year. Collars and tags can help reunite lost pets with their families, but even tagged animals can slip their collars or have tags too worn to read. More and more owners are turning to microchipping, then, to help locate lost pets.   A microchip is a small, glass cylinder injected just below a pet’s skin, often between the shoulder blades. The procedure takes just seconds and equips your four-legged friend with a chip the size of a grain of rice. Each chip holds a radio transmitter and tiny electronic device, which contain an animal’s unique ID number. When a lost pet is taken into a shelter, a scan reveals this chip, which allows workers to identify the animal and use a database to contact his owners.  At an average cost of just $45 from your local veterinarian, a microchip is an investment that will last your pet’s lifetime and greatly increases your chances of being reunited with a lost pet. A study of 53 animal shelters by the American Veterinary Medical Association found that only 22 percent of dogs entering the shelters were reunited with their owners— a number that jumped to 52 percent for microchipped dogs. Less than 2 percent of cats entering the shelters were reunited with their owners, but that number increased to more than 38 percent for microchipped felines.   Though microchipping saves many animals’ lives each year, there are a few risks associated with the chips. In very rare cases, veterinarians have inserted the chip in the wrong place or the chip migrated after it was implanted. While this is generally harmless, a few instances have caused infections or abscesses. There have also been rare cases where tumors developed near microchips, though it is unclear whether they were caused by the chips or not. Given the millions of animals that have had microchips inserted without incidence, the risk is extremely low. However, owners should weigh these risks against what could happen—including not being able to find their pets and potential euthanization in shelters—when deciding whether or not to microchip their pets.   While a microchip will last your pet’s lifetime, a chip is only as good as its registration. After equipping Fido or Kitty with a microchip, it’s important to submit your registration and keep your contact information up-to-date. This includes updating your address and telephone number any time they change so rescue workers can reach you. Discuss microchipping with your veterinarian to find out which chips are most commonly use in your area. Different companies sell different chips, so finding out which chips local shelters can scan—and which are most universally read—can increase your chances of being reunited with a lost pet. Keep traditional identification tags on pets with microchips, too, in case a scanner misses the chip or an individual without access to a microchip scanner finds your pet.

Cats can provide companionship, playmates and more enriching lives for their fellow felines, but introducing a new cat into your household can bring a flurry of tension and hostility when you already have a furry friend. By carefully planning introductions, however, you can ease both cats’ anxiety as they adjust to sharing a home.   Before bringing a cat home, you should first consider which companion you will choose. If your current cat likes to play, a more animated feline is likely a good fit. Likewise, elderly cats may not get along well with energetic kittens. Once you’ve picked your new pet, make a plan for how you’ll introduce him to your resident cat. One of the best ways to ease both pets’ introductions is to set up a special, isolated room for your new cat. This not only gives him a safe spot to adjust to his new home, but allows both cats to smell and hear each other before actually meeting face-to-face. Outfit the room with a litter box, food and fresh water, toys and a few cozy spots for hiding so it feels as welcoming as possible.   Smell is a crucial part of cats’ communication, so make sure your two felines have ample opportunity to get used to each other’s scents before meeting face-to-face. You can do this by feeding both cats on opposite sides of the isolation room door or using a towel to rub both cats, especially on their cheeks where they have pheromone-producing glands. Try switching the cats to opposite rooms after a day or so to allow them to adjust to each others’ smell. Once any hissing or growling through the door subsides, they are likely ready for a visual introduction.   For Kitty’s first encounter with your new pet, use a screen door or baby gate high enough to prevent either cat from jumping over it, or try cracking the door just a few inches to gauge your cats’ reactions if you don’t have any see-through barriers. If both cats seem comfortable, you can allow them to meet face-to-face. Otherwise, continue business as usual feeding, playing with your cats and giving them treats on their respective sides of the gate or door. If a cat won’t eat his food directly in front of the barrier, don’t worry: Move his dish back several feet and gradually inch it closer to the door. In a few days, both cats should be eating comfortably on their respective sides of the barrier and are ready to share a space.   Watch your cats from a distance when they first meet and don’t be alarmed if they hiss, walk away or completely ignore each other. If one cat shows signs of stress or aggression, separate them again and introduce them more gradually. With time, your feline friends will form a bond, providing them with companionship and a more fulfilling life. If, however, you’ve tried introducing your cats slowly and one is still harassing the other, seek advice from a professional behaviorist on how to create harmony among your feline friends.

We all have a plan to keep our families safe when a hurricane, tornado or flood hits home, but making a plan for your pet is equally important when preparing for disaster. Thinking ahead not only helps keep you and your furry companion safe, but increases the chances you and your pet will be reunited if you’re separated during a disaster.   One of the best ways to prepare for an emergency is to ID your pet. Four-legged friends and their owners can be separated for any number of reasons during a disaster, and outfitting your pet proper identification can make a huge difference in your chances for reuniting. Microchips are a great way to do this, and cost only around $45 at your local veterinarian’s office. Collars with tags, including your current contact information, are also useful when it comes to finding a pet. Be sure to keep your pet’s microchip registration up-to-date and include emergency contact information for family or friends outside of your immediate area in case you cannot be reached.   After ensuring Fido or Kitty can be easily identified, finding a pet-friendly place to stay during evacuation is key to planning for an emergency. Look up out-of-area hotels that accept pets or pre-arrange to stay with a friend or relative who doesn’t mind sharing space with your furry friend. Never leave your dog or cat behind if you evacuate. If, however, you have to leave Fido or Kitty, ensure you have a Rescue Alert sticker placed somewhere easily visible on the outside of your house to alert rescue workers to watch out for your animal. The ASPCA provides these stickers free at https://secure.aspca.org/take-action/order-your-pet-safety-pack. Animals often sense impending danger before we do, so bring outdoor pets inside as soon as you know a storm will hit. This can stop your companion from running away and will ensure he stays safe throughout the storm. Stressed-out pets can act out of character, so separate your dogs from cats and any other pets, if possible. Create an emergency kit for each of your pets, including stocks of items such as food, fresh water, any medications your pet takes, a pet first aid kit, temporary ID tags and a carrier or leash for each animal. You may also want to keep a copy of your pet’s vaccination records and a photo of you with your pet in case you need to prove ownership or make “lost pet” fliers after the disaster. Experts recommend keeping enough stocks to last your pet one week in case of an emergency.   Make sure you talk to your neighbors and designate someone willing care for your dog or cat if you’re unable to do so yourself when disaster strikes. This person should have a key to your home and, ideally, be familiar with your pets. Remember, different areas are prone to different types of disasters, so research which are most likely to strike your home and plan accordingly for your and your four-legged friend.

Moving is stressful even under the best circumstances and cats can become especially anxious when moving house. Making the transition as stress-free as possible for your feline has major benefits, however, from decreased risk of aggression to lower chances of escape attempts, house soiling and excessive meowing or crying.   When considering moving your cat to a new household, it’s helpful to break planning down into three phases: pre-move preparations, the relocation itself and settling Kitty into his new home. Preparing your cat for the big day starts with helping him adjust to the changes that come before he ever steps foot in the new house. Start putting out moving boxes several weeks before packing, for example, to help him adjust to their presence. If your cat becomes nervous during packing, move him to a quieter room away from the action. Start introducing your pet to his cat carrier early, too, leaving it open on the floor for Kitty to explore at his own pace. Equipping the carrier with a soft bed and tasty treats will encourage your cat to enter, although placing his food dish by the carrier will also encourage exploration if your pet is reluctant to enter the carrier on his own. This will help your cat form positive associations with his carrier, making move-in day less traumatic.   Leading up to your move, keep Kitty’s daily routine as regular as possible by feeding him at the same time each day. When to big day day finally comes, feed your pet a smaller breakfast to reduce the chances he gets an upset stomach. Keep his carrier closed while in transit to avoid any escape attempts and keep an eye on your cat at both the old and new houses to be sure he doesn’t dash out the door.   Once in his new home, your cat will likely feel overwhelmed. To help settle his anxiety, introduce him to a quiet room equipped with food, water, a litter box and a bed. Plant treats around the room to help Kitty feel more at home and encourage him to explore his new room. Ideally, keep your cat confined to this one room for the first few days in his new home to allow him to adjust to new the sights and smells gradually. Spend time with your cat in the room and, when the chaos of unpacking is over, gradually give your pet access to the entire house. At this point, you can place a second litter box in the spot where you want to keep one permanently, only removing the original box after your pet has had time to adjust to the new location. Alternately, you can inch the original litter box slowly toward the desired location over several days.   Moving with a pet can be stressful, but with adequate planning and preparation, you can reduce your cat’s anxiety, leading to a smoother move-in day for both you can your feline friend.

Every cat owner is familiar with the sharp, sibilant sound of hissing— the noise cats make to express fear, aggression, displeasure or uncertainty. Because hissing is your cats way of saying something’s wrong, you should never punish him for the behavior, but rather seek to understand what’s upsetting him.   Cats hiss by forcing air out through their arched tongues, creating a burst of wind from their mouths. Other behaviors that accompany hissing include your cat pulling his lips back, flattening his ears to his head and arching his back in a threatening stance. The whole purpose of the disturbing display is to express a warning— that a stranger is too close, that your pet feels threatened or that something is hurting your cat. While he uses hissing to ward off potential opponents and avoid fights, it’s a warning sign that aggression will follow if the perceived threat doesn’t cease and you should take this threat seriously.   To avoid being bitten or scratched, you need to understand what is causing Kitty’s conniption fits. Cats hiss due to territorial aggression, for example, especially when a new pet is introduced to the home. Assess any recent changes to you pet’s environment, being sure to introduce newcomers slowly by confining the new pet for the first few days to allow the cats adjust to each other’s scents. If your cat is hissing at human strangers, give guests with advanced warning before they visit and gradually introduce your cat to trusted outsiders so he learns that company isn’t a always a threat. Cats also hiss when they feel scared. If this is the case, take steps to make your pet feel more comfortable in his home: Provide Kitty with plenty of hiding places, perches and other nooks, and consider using Feliway, a mood-enhancing synthetic pheromone that signals feelings of comfort for cats. If your cat is hissing due to aggression, however, the solution may be more play to expel pent-up energy and providing outlets such as scratching posts. Cats also hiss when they’re forced to do something they don’t want to do, such as get in the pet carrier, and the best solution for this type of fit is to remain calm and introduce the undesirable activity slowly so your pet has time to adjust. If all else fails and you must get your cat to do the undesirable, use thick gloves or oven mitts to avoid being scratched.   If none of the above sounds like your pet, he may be hissing due to pain, injury or discomfort. Consult your veterinarian to rule out any medical causes if your cat has started hissing or has ramped up the behavior recently and you can’t figure out why. Remember, hissing is a sign that something’s wrong and you should never punish your cat for the behavior. Instead, work to discover the underlying problem and address it so Kitty feels safe and secure in his home.

Safety from predators, oncoming traffic and disease are just a few of the well-documented benefits of keeping cats indoors. Unfortunately, our feline friends don’t always see their indoor lifestyles as the luxury it is. If your cat makes a mad dash every time you open the front door, he’s at risk of being hit by a car, attacked by another animal or getting lost— making door-darting behaviour a problem that should be addressed.   Many cat owners consider keeping their companions inside to be a restrictive lifestyle, but cats can have a stimulating life without venturing outdoors. Equip your feline friend with plenty of climbing spaces, hiding places, perches and even a bird feeder outside the window to keep him entertained. Engage him in several minutes of play each day with a laser toy or kitty “fishing pole” to help satisfy his hunting instincts. You may even want to consider giving your cat a companion, such as another cat or a dog, to provide an extra outlet for play, exercise and affection while you’re away from home.   Even after creating an indoor oasis, however, some owners have trouble with cats that make a mad dash every time they open the door. If your cat comes running, there are several techniques to try to remedy his bad habit. For starters, stop giving Kitty any attention at the door. While you may be tempted to lean down and greet him as soon as you get home, this gives your pet an easy opportunity to slide outside. Instead, set up an official “greeting area” further inside the room. You can accomplish this by calling your cat to the assigned post and rewarding him with a treat immediately until he forms an association with the spot.   If Kitty continues dashing for the door, however, you will need to take more serious measures. Try offering him a treat or toy just before leaving, which should distract him from the open entryway. Some cat owners attach a rolled newspaper to the door and bang it loudly whenever Kitty comes running to help scare him off. Others leave a squirt bottle of water just outside the door and peak in before entering, giving the cat a quick spritz if he is waiting right at the entrance. If you try this technique, be sure to shut the door immediately, though, as you don’t want your cat associating you with the squirt bottle. Remember, cats in heat and tomcats who catch a whiff of a fertile female are more likely to try to escape, so spaying or neutering your cat can also help when it comes to solving cats’ escape artist behaviour.

Every cat owner has come home to find a dead mouse, bird or other hunting prize strewn across the stoop, often with Kitty waiting proudly beside his bounty. While this type of gift giving is one of our feline friends’ more off-putting habits, it is simply your cat’s way of showing he is a worthwhile hunter and offering affection to his human family.   Cats are natural-born predators, as evidenced by data showing they kill billions of birds and small mammals every year in the United States alone. Their sharp claws and teeth make them well adapted to this carnivorous lifestyle, but unlike their big cat relatives, our domesticated pets do not need to hunt to survive. As lions drag prey back to their dens for a meal, then, our feline friends also bring their bounty home— but are more likely to share it with us, their beloved owners.   Experts have found that spayed female cats are the most likely culprits behind these “gifts,” offering further explanation for Kitty’s behavior: In the wild, mother cats teach their kittens how to hunt and eat their food by bringing dead or injured prey back to the den. Domesticated cats still have this instinct, but fixed females have no young to teach. By leaving dead critters on the back porch or in your bedroom doorway, then, your cat is simply fulfilling her natural role as caretaker and teacher. She is welcoming you as a member of her family and working to take care of you— especially given your lack of hunting skills.   Though dead mice may be less than appealing, it’s important to remember why your cat brings home these treasures. By offering prey, he is working to prove he is a worthwhile hunter and showing he cares about you as his family. It is important not to chastise your cat for gift giving, then, but instead, give him praise with words or a pet. Be sure to remain calm and keep your disgust to yourself, too, as cats can read body language. If Kitty isn’t keen to let you dispose of his gift, try distracting him with a toy or treat instead of hurting his feelings. If there are other people around, ask them to help distract your pet while you dispose of his hunting prize.   Because hunting is hardwired into cats’ brains, there is no way to prevent your pet from bringing home gifts. Indoor cats have less opportunity to track down prey, but will still find mice or small bugs to offer you. When all else fails, housecats will even offer their toys to their owners. Just remember that sharing is caring when it comes to your cat’s hunting prizes.

Nothing says “Hello!” like backing up butt-first into someone’s face— at least if you’re a cat. While this gesture may seem uncouth to his human counterparts, your pet’s presenting of his posterior is the ultimate sign of affection in cat-speak. Not only does it give you access to his scent glands — cats’ way of sharing information about themselves — but the butt-to-face greeting also puts your pet in a very vulnerable position, meaning it is reserved for only his closest companions.   Cats can say a lot with their tails, and a tail held high is a sign that your pet is relaxed and comfortable. Tail sniffing, then, is considered a normal greeting between two familiar felines. A tail-up welcome puts your cat in a very vulnerable position, however, so this salutation is reserved only for his closest friends. When two unfamiliar cats meet for the first time, they are more likely to sniff or rub each other’s faces or necks, which contain scent-producing glands. These scents help clue cats into their social settings and can calm feelings of aggression or fear when approaching a friendly feline. Once cats feel more comfortable with each other, they will perform a similar greeting along each other’s flanks, another scent-laden region. This can communicate information about a cat’s own scent, which cats he’s been rubbing up against, and which humans have been petting him. Only once felines have achieved best-friend status do they let their peers sniff beneath their raised tail— the center of your cat’s signature scent. This is the feline equivalent of a warm handshake or hug, and greeting you bottom-first shows trust between you and your pet. A bum to the face may also be your cat’s way of asking for affection, further reaffirming your bond.   While your cat does not expect a sniff in return, some people prefer not to be greeted by their cat’s nether regions. To head off a posterior-first welcome, try meeting your cat with a scratch under the chin instead. You can also pat your cat from his head to his shoulders, emulating the exchange of information between cats when they brush up against each other. All of these actions swap scents while showering your cat with affection—the primary goals of his butt-to-face greeting. With some practice, your pet should start meeting you head-on, but in the meantime, you can rest easy knowing your feline friend doesn’t expect you to return his rear-first greeting with the regular sniff he’d expect from another cat— a simple scratch or pat on the back will do.