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Pet Bucket Blog
Filtered by tag ('tips and tricks')
After saying a sad goodbye to my beloved cat of 20 years, I recently adopted a female 5-month old rescue kitten to cheer me up. I soon realised that this little bundle of energy desperately needed a playmate, so I decided to adopt a younger 12-week old male kitten. Cats are territorial, and in general they don't like to share, but after a lot of time and patience, my two kittens are finally learning to get along. Even though they started off hissing, growling and chasing each other, they’ve now become constant companions who really seem quite fond of each other. Here are some simple tips to make introducing two cats go smoothly.
1. Keep the cats separated at first
When you arrive home, the first thing to do is isolate the new cat in a spare room or bathroom. This will give them the chance to become accustomed to the sights, sounds and smells of their new home. Make sure the new cat has access to all their creature comforts – food, water, litter tray, scratching post and toys. The room should have a door that can be closed so there is no contact between the newcomer and the existing cat. However, the two cats should be able to smell and hear each other.
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2. Slowly let the cats see each other
After a couple of days, start feeding and playing with the cats near the door of the isolation room so they associate each other’s scent with a positive experience. Then after about a week, let the cats see each. Do not allow full body contact. Use baby gates or a screen to keep them physically separate. Or if this is not possible, open the just door wide enough so that neither cat can get through. Some hissing, growling and paw swiping is to be expected.
3. Introduce your cats face to face
Once visual contact has been made and hostilities have started to subside, it’s time to open the door and let them explore each other’s territory. Don't interfere unless you believe either cat is in danger of being hurt. If your cats react badly, put the new kitten back in the isolation room and keep trying!
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4. Treat your cats equally
Make sure you provide separate litter boxes, sleeping areas and food and water dishes. Also give each cat equal attention and affection and enough space to enjoy time away from one another at different times during the day.
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When your pet has fleas, the whole household has fleas, and it can be an incredibly frustrating experience to rid your home of these pests. Even so, with some patience and determined effort you can get rid of fleas as well as flea eggs. Anyone who has battled fleas is usually eager to prevent their pet from getting them in the future. However, if you find that your pet and home have fleas, the following tips will help you get rid of them.
Timing
Timing is important when treating your pet and home for fleas. Ideally, you should treat your home, pet, and backyard at the same time. While adult fleas are comfortable hanging out on your dog, flea larvae and eggs will be hanging out in other spots. By treating them all at the same time, you increase your chances of success. Otherwise, the fleas or flea eggs will survive in one of the other untreated areas.
Insecticide
Once fleas are rampant in your home, insecticide is generally a must. Your veterinarian may be able to recommend a preferred product. Your local pet store should also be able to advise you about the best products to use. Once you choose a product for the interior you should also pick one up for the yard or for the places where your pet is known to spend time. You will need to carefully read the instructions and follow them to the letter for optimum results. Don't use these products, however, until you plan to treat your dog.
The Interior
You'll want to perform a thorough preparation before using your insecticide. You need to store all food and remove your pet's bowls of food and water. If you have a fish tank, you may need to cover fish tanks and remove any other pets you might have. Be sure to check and treat them for fleas too. All pet bedding will have to be washed in hot water or destroyed. Be sure to vacuum thoroughly--carpets, floors, and stairs. Vacuuming helps remove eggs and larvae. Don't forget to get rid of the vacuum bag right after you finish. Then you can apply the insecticide.
Outside
Most of the fleas will likely be dealt with once you treat the house and your dog. Even so, it makes good sense to treat areas outdoors that are high-traffic areas for your dog. Some people may prefer to have professionals come out to spray, but many commercial products work well when applied by homeowners. The key, again, is to provide these various treatments in tandem.
Maintain cleanliness
Even after you treat your home, you'll want to vacuum a couple times a day for several days and keep your floors clutter free so that you can easily vacuum. Also, don't forget to keep your dog flea free in the future. Once you have to de-flea your home, you don't want to have to go through that again. Plus, it's no fun for your dog to suffer those flea bites!
Want to protect your forever friend from annoying fleas? Our online store stocks heavily discounted (up to 75% off) flea treatments.
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Does your pup’s poo resemble hard nuts or soft piles? While the occasional soft stool or bout of diarrhea is normal for most pets, persistent soft stool samples are often the first sign of a more serious matter, especially if it’s accompanied by other symptoms.
Veterinarians often use a scoring system to help identify the softness of your pet’s stool sample. Here’s a comprehensive ranking of fecal matters – in a more palatable manner.
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What should I do if my pet has an unusual stool sample?
More often than not, diet is the reason for your pet’s softer stools. Some remedies include adding a probiotic powder to your dog’s current food or switching to a diet of plain rice and chicken for a while. Canned pumpkin (not spiced pie filling!) has also been known to help regulate bowel movements. If the diarrhea returns, consult your vet for more guidance.
It’s very exciting for everyone, humans and animals alike, on the day your new pet moves in. Whether a puppy, kitten or adult pet is joining your family, there are a number of things to do that will ensure the process runs as smoothly as possible and that your pet can adjust happily to their new home. Be patient with your new pet and remember that it may take time for them to feel comfortable and secure.
1. First and foremost
When bringing a new pet into a home they will have some stress, confusion, anxiety and fear. They are in a totally different environment and separated from what, and who, they have known before. All pets should be given time to adjust, and space. Despite your best efforts, kittens and puppies will no doubt have toilet accidents in your home. Even house-trained animals may have accidents during this period of adjustment.
2. The essentials
Ask the breeder, shelter, foster carer or whomever has been responsible for your pet's care to verify whether microchipping and registration, vaccination, flea and tick prevention, worming and desexing has been performed or is needed. This is not just for the health of your new pet, but also for the health of any of your existing pets.
You should have a collar and identification tag ready with your pets name, your name, phone number and address. You need to have a bed and bedding, toys, food and water bowls, litter trays, litter, scratching post, food and treats ready for your new pet. Ask what food your pet has been eating and continue with this food. If you want to change the food or diet of your pet, this should be done gradually.
Cats and kittens should be set up in a quiet, safe room and confined there for the first few days. A laundry or bathroom (with the toilet seat closed) will work well or ideally, make it the room that will be the cat’s escape/own room. At first, this room should not be shared with an existing cat. Set the room up with food and water bowls, bed, a scratching post, toys and litter tray. Cats will be more sensitive to changing environments so may spend much of the first few days hiding and shying away from you.
Once the cat has had a chance to settle, close all the windows and doors to outside areas and open the door to the cat’s room to let them explore your house.
3. Pet proofing your home and garden
Check each room of your home for anything than could harm your pet such as choking hazards, electrical cables, heavy items that may fall or tip, cleaning products, medicines and unsuitable foods. Young animals love to chew, jump, bite, scratch and play so put anything valuable safely away - and that goes for shoes too! Cats in particular are masters of crawling into holes and small spaces. Make sure that any holes in walls or other places where they may get stuck are covered up.
You’ll also need to check your garden to ensure there are no gaps in the fence or gates, poisonous plants or garden products and that any pools or ponds are fenced off.
4. Outdoors
Under supervision, give puppies and dogs time to explore the house and garden at their own pace, always using a leash in any unfenced areas. It is not recommended for a cat or kitten be allowed outside of your home for three weeks, unless on a lead. They must be completely familiar with the house before heading out. A cat may wander off or become disoriented. After some supervised or leashed outings, the cat should recognise the garden as their territory and know its way around. If birds and small animals are regular visitors then make sure your cat’s collar includes a bell. Use meal times or treats to encourage the cat to come inside at night.
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5. Introducing the family
Take introductions slowly and do not overwhelm the new pet. Introduce the human family members first and then any other pets one at a time. Remember, never leave young children alone with the new pet.
Your new pet needs to know your scent, be comfortable and trust you. This will generally be easy with dogs, puppies and kittens whereas older cats may be wary. Enter the cat’s room, sit on the floor and let them approach you. Allow them to sniff your hand and gently pat their head and under their chin. If they don’t approach you, try later. Introduce the rest of the human family in time. Meal times and treats are good barrier breakers.
Introducing other pets is a trickier beast (pardon the pun). Introductions should occur one pet at a time and it is important that you make any existing pets know they are loved and have no need to feel threatened by the new arrival.
For dogs, during the first meeting keep both on leads and at a safe distance. If there is no aggression displayed, allow them to get close enough to smell and greet each other. If there are any problems, separate them and try again later. Use treats to reward good behaviour and reassure both dogs that everything is okay. If needed, continue with short, supervised meetings until the dogs become friends. Introducing a new puppy or dog to a cat is best done at a meal times so that meetings are associated with food and positive experiences.
With more than one cat, place a pillow or bedding item of each cat in the space of the other to familiarise them with the other’s scent. You can gradually let the cats spend time together.
6. Toilet training
When you first bring a dog home encourage them towards a spot in the garden where you want them to relieve themselves. Reward them once it is done. You’ll need to take puppies outside regularly, for instance after meals, after a nap, before bedtime and after waking. Watch to make sure your dog or puppy doesn't try to urinate in the house. If you notice them lift their leg, take them out to the preferred spot.
If you have a large house, you may want a two litter trays set up for the cat to use during their first 6-8 weeks. As the cat becomes more familiar with the house’s layout, gradually move the second tray closer to the permanent tray, eventually removing the second tray completely.
7. Sleeping
Although hard to resist, it is not recommended that you allow pets to sleep in your bed. Cats and kittens should be set-up in their own room for the first weeks and their bed, litter tray, food and water bowls should always remain in that room or whichever will be their escape/own room.
Place your dog or puppy's bed or crate where they can see and hear you at night time such as in your bedroom or just outside your bedroom with the door open. Make sure they are comfortable and warm and give them a toy to chew on. Having them close also allows you to easily take them outside if they need to relieve themselves.
Puppies will feel particularly isolated and will bark and whine to be near you. Verbally reassure your puppy or dog if they are whining or barking but do not give them much attention as this will encourage them to continue. As they settle into the home and family, you can move their bed further away to their permanent sleeping spot.
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Would you like your dog's coat to glow with health? Here are four ways to get your pet's fur super shiny and soft.
Watch What They Eat
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The quality of a coat is often a reflection of your pet’s insides. A healthy diet is the first step to making your dog’s fur glossy.
Premium pet food with a high protein content and low amounts of grain is great for improving your dog's coat, as is the addition of a small amount of oil. Vegetable, sunflower, olive, coconut and fish oil are ideal, though take care not to add too much – a teaspoon will do – as an oversupply can lead to diarrhea.
Lots of Brushing!
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Dogs naturally produce skin oils that make their coats shiny. Brushing stimulates skin and hair follicles to produce more of these oils that enhance your dog’s hairdo.
Brushing can also help to remove dead hair which can contribute to your dog's hair looking dull. Dead hair can also block pores, which minimize the flow of skin oils.
For longer hair breeds especially, regular brushing also helps to reduce unsightly tangles and burrs.
Keep the Number of Baths Down
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Dogs who aren’t keen on baths will be happy to hear too many are a bad idea. Baths strip natural oils and decrease coat condition, so keep your pooch’s time in the tub to a minimum.
When bath time does come around, gentle cleansers like oatmeal shampoo are a good idea, as they are less likely to strip oils from your pet’s fur. Oatmeal shampoo also contains Vitamin E that is a natural softener.
After shampooing, using a specially designed pet conditioner is great for adding softness and shine.
Exercise
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Exercise is great for your pet’s general health, which is linked to super shiny fur. Walks in the park, running on the beach and playing fetch stimulates blood and oxygen which add nutrients to the coat.
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Senior dogs shouldn't have to live out their golden years in a shelter. Here are 5 reasons to consider adopting an older dog, besides that they're just as cute as younger ones!
1. You know what you're getting.
If you're not into surprises, adopting an older dog could be for you. From the start you'll know the important things such as full grown size, temperament, and grooming requirements. This information will make it easier for you to choose the right dog for you and your lifestyle.
2. You may save a life.
The term "senior dog" usually applies to any pooch over the age of 7. Even though small dogs mature much slower than larger ones, in general dogs over the age of 5 simply get overlooked in a shelter environment. Shelters are overcrowded and older dogs will be among the first to be euthanized if they're not adopted in a timely manner.
3. You can teach an old dog new tricks.
Despite the old saying, a dog can be trained at any age. Many senior dogs already come trained, or at least know some basic commands like sit and stay. If not, older dogs are calmer and have a much better attention span than puppies making them easier to train.
4. Less mess.
A senior dog doesn't require the same amount of monitoring that a puppy does. It's likely they are already house-trained, and they have all their adult teeth so they won't be chewing up your furniture. This dog knows what it's like to live in a home and will settle in quickly.
5. Older dogs need homes just as much a younger ones.
In many cases, when an older dog ends up at a shelter it's not because of reasons related to behavior. Death of a guardian, allergies, loss of a job, and other lifestyle changes are all common reasons for an owner to surrender their dog. These dogs already know what it's like to be loved by someone, and will make a loyal and caring companion instantly.
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Heartworm is caused by a dangerous organism called Dirofilaria immitis. This parasitic roundworm can be deadly to unprotected dogs, and it is important for all pet owners to be on the lookout for it.
The severity of a heartworm episode is dependent on the number of roundworms present in the dog's body, the length of the infestation and the response of the dog. A dog in a weakened state or one that has a compromised immune system may suffer a more severe reaction, while a dog in otherwise good condition may recover more quickly.
Even though many dogs fully recover from a heartworm infestation, this common disease can be deadly in some cases. Almost all dogs who come in contact with the Dirofilaria immitis parasite contract heartworm, so the best approach is prevention. The organism that causes heartworm is now quite widespread. It is considered endemic in tropical and subtropical climates, and it is commonly found along the Atlantic and Gulf Coasts and in river basins from the Ohio to the Mississippi. Dog owners living in these areas should be especially vigilant about protecting their pets, but the organism that causes the diseases exists worldwide and all dog owners need to watch out for the signs and symptoms.
The good news is that heartworm is preventable with a proactive treatment. Pet owners should talk to their veterinarians about prophylactic treatment and protect their pets as soon as possible. An annual heartworm preventative can prevent the disease from taking hold and causing serious damage.
If your dog has not yet been protected from heartworm, it is important to watch out for the common signs and symptoms. In mild cases of the disease, your dog may show few or no symptoms, so it is important to have the dog examined by a veterinarian at least once a year. If you notice any of the following signs and symptoms, you should make an appointment with your vet right away.
. Coughing
. Exercise intolerance
. Anemia
. Fainting spells
. Heart failure
The above signs usually indicate a very serious heartworm infestation, and they are not to be taken lightly. As the pet owner, you know your dog better than anyone. If something does not seem right, you need to call your vet immediately for a thorough examination. Your vet can determine whether the symptoms are caused by heartworm or another serious disease.
Your vet can also help you treat heartworm effectively and help your pet recover. While heartworm is a serious disease, it can be treated successfully when caught early. Being a vigilant and aware pet owner is the best way to keep your dog happy and healthy.
Want to protect your four-legged friend from heartworm? Our online store stocks heavily discounted (up to 50% off) heartworm products.
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Most dog owners are faced with the problem of controlling the way their dog chews. Regardless if the dog is inside the house or outside, they will feel the need to chew anything they find. Puppies also develop the habit of chewing everything they discover, but mature dogs exhibit the same behavioral problem as well. Although chewing is a natural behavior, it can become destructive. It is a nightmare each time you come home and find that your furniture, shoes, and other items have been destroyed by your pet. There are simple methods that you can use to stop a dog from chewing.
Determine the dog's behavior
Why is the dog chewing? There are basic reasons for this, so it is your responsibility to understand the root of the behavior. Some of the reasons for a dog's destructive chewing include boredom and feelings of anxiety, or stress. If the dog or puppy is teething, chewing is a way for them to get relief from the pain.
Confinement
A dog or puppy should be confined if they exhibit excessive chewing. When your dog finds something interesting, they will feel inclined to chew. Never allow your pet to wander around your home unsupervised. While you are training your dog, make sure they are in a safe location to prevent the destruction of your furnishings. Keep items away that you know they will be tempted to chew.
Chew toys for dogs
If your dog is chewing from boredom, give them items that are fun and entertaining to chew. When you are unable to spend time with your dog, keep them occupied with a chew toy. It is easier to use the best chew toys for dogs that hold their attention. Give your dog several different types of chew toys to prevent them from feeling bored.
Daily exercise
Some behavioral problems are often caused from a dog's lack of exercise. If your dog has excess energy, play with them. You will find that regular exercise reduces the bad behavior of the dog. First consult with your veterinarian to determine the dog's health before you incorporate an exercise program. Playing fetch games, walking, running, or taking the dog for a swim are fun activities that they will enjoy.
Be patient
While you are training your pet to stop chewing, it is important for you to be patient. Avoid losing your temper if you are not getting immediate results. Always be kind to prevent the dog from feeling stressed. Supervise your dog to ensure that he develops a good chewing habit.
Every dog owner's goal is to raise the perfect dog, but some issues will develop and you will have to correct the behavior. Unless they are trained, dogs will not have an understanding of items they are not to chew. When you are training your dog to stop chewing, teach them what to chew, and things not to chew on. With these tips in mind, you are guaranteed to see an improvement in the dog's behavior.
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So many of us spend the entire year thinking about our next holiday - dreaming about the sand between our toes, the fresh and crisp mountain air, dozing in the sun or listening to the gentle crackle of a campfire. There are now enough pet friendly accommodation options and venues to enable your cat or dog to come along and unwind too. The keys to a great holiday with your pet is research and planning. There’s a lot to think about and you want to make sure that you make the right decision on behalf of your pet.
Before you hit the road, take a look at our holiday tips.
1. Is it the right decision?
As much as we love our pets, it could be far more stressful and upsetting for them to be on holiday, than being looked after at home by a trusted friend or relative. You need to consider your pet’s temperament and experiences before taking them with you and remember that most cats do not like to travel.
Has your pet been away from home before? Does your pet obey basic obedience commands? Will they become anxious? Will your dog be over-excited and bark or damage property? Is your pet socialised? How is your dog around other people and other dogs? Does your pet have special needs or a medical or physical condition that may be exacerbated?
2. Pets allowed versus pet friendly
Accommodation venues that state they are pet friendly are usually referring to allowing well-behaved dogs. Although cat friendly places are increasing, unless specified you will need to enquire about having your cat stay. Some venues allow pets in designated areas but not in rooms. For all pets, ask what the rules of the venue are.
Are pets allowed in rooms? Are there any restrictions on number, breed or size? What facilities are available e.g. bathing facilities, grassed run areas etc? Are dogs required to be on a leash at all times? Is the premises properly fenced? Is it near busy roads? Can your pet be left unsupervised for a short period?
3. See your vet
Visit your vet before any holiday to make sure that your pet has had all the current vaccinations, worm, flea and tick prevention required and are in good health. If you are travelling during tick season or to an area with paralysis ticks, then thoroughly check your pet twice each day when there. If your pet is on medication ensure that you have ample to last your holiday. Some accommodation venues may request a certificate of health or statement of vaccination.
4. Identification
Your pet should wear a collar and identity tag with their name, your name and mobile/cell number and the number where you are staying. If possible, also include the accommodation’s address too.
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5. Research and plan
Check out what is available at your destination. Are there dog-friendly parks or beaches? Are there rules about dogs in the township or city area? What local attractions and eateries are dog friendly? Find the contact details and address of a local vet. If your pet has specific needs, it is worth contacting the vet in advance to notify them in case of an emergency.
6. On the road
How does your pet travel in the car on short trips? If they find it distressing then perhaps rethink your plan to take them on holiday. If going away is a necessity, talk to your vet about safe, mild sedation or travel sickness medication if needed. For their safety and yours, when in the car, cats should be in a carrier secured safely by seat belts and dogs should be suitably restrained. Make sure that your pet is comfortable and have water, water bowl, and food on hand. Take plenty of toilet and water breaks and have a litter pan and litter available for your cat.
In case of emergency, your pet’s carrier should be labelled with your name, address and phone numbers, similar details for a friend or relative as well as your pet’s name, date of last vaccinations and the name and address of your vet.
7. What to pack
Some of these items are essentials and others will depend on your duration of stay, planned destination and activities. You want your pet to be as comfortable as possible when away from home.
Their favourite bed and bedding
A few favourite toys
Plenty of their usual food and preferred treats
Water bowls
Leash
Flea and tick prevention, flea comb
Shampoo, towel and any grooming equipment
Litter pan and litter
Plenty of garbage bags
Sunscreen
Any additional bedding or coats for cold climates
Floatation vest
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8. To remember
Although most venues will not allow it anyway, you should not leave your pet alone in a hotel room or campsite unless absolutely necessary and only for a short time. It is likely that being alone in a strange environment will frighten your pet. Cats are not suited to caravan parks and campsites. Don’t let your cat outside in any new environment unless they are on a leash or fenced in so can’t escape.
9. Decision time
Holidays can be a wonderful and enjoyable time for the whole family, but taking you pet it is not a decision to make spontaneously. There are many things that need consideration, lots of planning and research to do and always, always think of your pet’s welfare and needs first. Many animals will find it stressful being away from home, travelling or having a change in their routine. Ultimately, is taking your pet on holiday best for them? If not, leave them at home in the care of a responsible and caring person known to the pet.
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Cats are typically tidy animals that take pride in maintaining a neat appearance. Unfortunately, all of that licking usually comes with a price. Any cat owner knows that hairballs are an uncomfortable problem for clean kitties. If your furry friend is prone to getting wads of fur stuck in its throat, you may be able to cut down on this condition. Here are six easy ways to reduce your cat's hairballs:
1. Keep your cat groomed
Grooming your kitty regularly can help keep the amount of excess hair under control. Be sure to brush your cat's fur thoroughly on a daily basis. You should also massage in a pet-safe conditioner to keep its coat free of clumps. Your cat will feel pampered and may deal with less coughing and choking.
2. Feed your cat a fishy treat
This is another tip your cat is sure to enjoy. Try giving it a treat like a canned sardine or a bit of tuna that's been packed in oil. The oil will serve as a lubricant to help slide hair through the digestive tract and keep fur from getting lodged in the throat. As a bonus, your cat will love indulging in the tasty snack.
3. Mix some canned pumpkin into your cat's food
You probably know that "Pumpkin" is a fairly common name for a cuddly kitty. However, you may not be aware that feeding your cat a small serving of pumpkin may reduce the occurrence of hairballs. Try adding a couple tablespoons of a canned variety into your pet's daily meals. The wetness will help glide the hair along and the extra fiber will promote regularity. You'll help get rid of the fur that's been clogging the pipes!
4. Purchase a petroleum-based lubricant
Since hairballs are such a common dilemma, there are plenty of products available to treat this condition. Look out for creams and gels might work for your cat. Look for one that contains petroleum jelly and is made up of only non-toxic ingredients. You always want to make your cat's safety the top priority.
5. Choose a hairball-reducing pet food
There are many pet foods on the market that cater to specific health concerns. You're certain to find a healthy option with a hairball-reducing recipe. Feeding your cat a diet that's specially formulated may be all it takes to keep the hairballs at bay.
6. Consult your vet
If your cat still has excessive hairballs after trying these remedies or the hairballs are accompanied by other symptoms, there may be an underlying health condition. Visit your preferred veterinarian to determine the next course of action. After doing a thorough examination, he or she may be able to suggest a medication or another simple solution to your cat's hairball problem.
When you're a cat owner, hairballs often come with the territory. However, that doesn't mean you can't cut down on your kitty's discomfort. By using these easy tips, you can reduce those hairballs and keep your cat healthy and happy!
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